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• #1

Hello everyone,

I bought a house in Dec 2022 and it came with a dishwasher; which might have been a huge selling point for me since it was a vintage KitchenAid Customer by Hobart; but it was also the location and no crowded neighbors ; along with the size and space for all the grandkids at the same time.

Unfortunately, at the closing the older owner said, "Oh that old thing hasn’t worked since 1995 I just didn’t want to replace it or pay to have it disposed of." Which we found was basically how he felt about all the appliances in the kitchen; but we had our own so I hadn’t even checked out if anything worked or not since working vintage appliances was part of what came with the house.

While cleaning out things we found a "NEW" timer in a drawer; he had bought it in the 90s and never installed it. My son and I installed it and bam! Vintage dishwasher working perfectly.

Since then a few things have happened, the water inlet got clogged up; replaced it, the float got stuck up, tapped it water now comes in.

I’ve lurked a little and I plan on searching through the archives because currently the water only comes in during the Pre-Soak cycle and not during wash or rinse. Everything else works perfectly just if you don’t start it on pre soak you get no water.

Thanks! Anna

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• #2

The Kitchenaid KDC-17 is very similar to my KDC-19. I used mine today, and it does a terrific job on a load of dishes, pots & pans, etc. I had a few minor issues with leaking hoses in the past, but those have been cured. But that machine is definitely worth hanging onto. Double-check the float for free up-down movement, and particularly the switch that is under it. it may have sediment causing binding, or some corrosion. Because if the float sticks "UP" water will not work.

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• #3

annaMLam, you need to cite the specific model of your KA from the tag on it.

The KDx17 series (dates from 1971 to 1974) and KDx-17A (1974 to 1976) don’t have a float. They have a pressure switch for overfill protection, as I recall. A KDC-17 (Custom, bottom-of-the-line model) doesn’t have a soak. It has only two cycle choices, Full (prewash or prerinse, 2nd prerinse, wash, rinse, rinse, dry), and Rinse Hold (rinse, rinse).

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• #4

If it’s anything like mine, it initially fills, then pauses while the heating element brings up the water temp, then starts the prewash, etc. Same happens for the final Sani-rinse.

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• #5

If it’s anything like mine, it initially fills, then pauses while the heating element brings up the water temp, then starts the prewash, etc. Same happens for the final Sani-rinse.

The 17 series isn’t like your 19. Water heating is featured only on the Superba, and on it to maintain the main wash and after-rinses with a 700 watts of heating, and boost the final Sani Rinse (if selected) to 180°F with 1,400 watts of heating. Sani Rinse is featured only on the Superba. The Superba (and Imperial) have a Soak cycle, which doesn’t involve any heating for the soak/dwell period.

The Purge function at the start of all cycles on the Imperial and at start of the Soak cycle on the Superba is a half-fill (one minute timed) and drain to flush the supply line of standing cold water.

17-seriesCycleChart.jpg

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• #6

I ran my KDC-19 yesterday. I started it at 1:30PM. It finished it’s normal wash cycle at 2:30PM The air-dry fan then ran till 3:30PM when the machine’s timer finally stopped.

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• #7

annaMLam, you need to cite the specific model of your KA from the tag on it.

The KDx17 series (dates from 1971 to 1974) and KDx-17A (1974 to 1976) don’t have a float. They have a pressure switch for overfill protection, as I recall. A KDC-17 (Custom, bottom-of-the-line model) doesn’t have a soak. It has only two cycle choices, Full (prewash or prerinse, 2nd prerinse, wash, rinse, rinse, dry), and Rinse Hold (rinse, rinse).

Thanks it is the KDC-17A 34011 with Full Cycle and Rinse hold and Energy Saver Heat off.

Water comes in during 1st prewash and drains and doesn’t come back if during the 2nd prewash, wash or 2 rinse cycles.

I have the service manual and a bunch of parts diagrams and plan on taking it apart during the next few weekends or after the holidays.

I bought a new timer, because it can’t hurt to have a spare and a new inlet valve. I’ll check the manual later about the float or pressure switch; the manual definitely calls out the float in several places but it also has all of the KDx-17 models and the 17A and portable models in it so I will make sure I looking at my specific model when troubleshooting or replacing parts.

Thanks for the advice!

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• #8

I ran my KDC-19 yesterday. I started it at 1:30PM. It finished it’s normal wash cycle at 2:30PM The air-dry fan then ran till 3:30PM when the machine’s timer finally stopped.

My KDC-17A takes 60 minutes from start to finish and until it stopped letting water in after the 1st prewash and drain cycle it was amazing.

I tried to wash my phone while recording a video (in a water proof plastic bag) and the force of the jets from the lower arm took my phone on a journey but it was impressive to kind of see.

I will have to cut it down to that cycle and post later.

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• #9

KDC 17 a KitchenAid dishwasher, not filling properly

Hi Anna, you likely have either a bad inlet valve or a timer, much less likely the timer, however.

You can diagnose this by starting the cycle, watching it go through and when it gets to the main wash or wherever where it doesn’t fill again, just open the door and turn it off for a half an hour, then restart the cycle and see if it fills for the next phase or two without moving the timer.

It’s likely that this Phil and that solenoid is overheating and then it stops filling until it cools.

There’s a small chance that it’s the overflow pressure switch acting up, but it probably wouldn’t work and then act up when it gets to the main wash every time.

No KitchenAid home dishwasher had a float until the 18 series., You’re 17 series dishwasher has a little pressure switch mounted underneath the machine. There’s a little tube going to it that sometimes would clog with rust because the connection where a little rubber hose connects to the tank with rust. It’s easy to clean out that tube, just by removing the filter from the dishwasher and reaching in with a small piece of coathanger wire or something you can do it from the inside without disassembling anything.

It sounds like this dishwasher wasn’t used for much of its life so you may have a good machine for quite a few years yet.

John L

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• #10

KDC 17 a KitchenAid dishwasher, not filling properly

Hi Anna, you likely have either a bad inlet valve or a timer, much less likely the timer, however.

You can diagnose this by starting the cycle, watching it go through and when it gets to the main wash or wherever where it doesn’t fill again, just open the door and turn it off for a half an hour, then restart the cycle and see if it fills for the next phase or two without moving the timer.

It’s likely that this Phil and that solenoid is overheating and then it stops filling until it cools.

There’s a small chance that it’s the overflow pressure switch acting up, but it probably wouldn’t work and then act up when it gets to the main wash every time.

No KitchenAid home dishwasher had a float until the 18 series., You’re 17 series dishwasher has a little pressure switch mounted underneath the machine. There’s a little tube going to it that sometimes would clog with rust because the connection where a little rubber hose connects to the tank with rust. It’s easy to clean out that tube, just by removing the filter from the dishwasher and reaching in with a small piece of coathanger wire or something you can do it from the inside without disassembling anything.

It sounds like this dishwasher wasn’t used for much of its life so you may have a good machine for quite a few years yet.

John L

John - thank you so much!! Your reply relieved my anxiety of taking it all apart to find the problem.

It is original to the house and in digging through some boxes of manuals the previous owner left about all the appliances, hot water heater, boiler etc; I found that this dishwasher was installed in 1975 by the original homeowners (I’m the third owner) and also found all the service dates and dates that replacement parts happened. Along with a note on when it last worked.

I work remote so I almost ran down to test between cycles but sadly have a meeting so I’m excited to be done for the day and try the test to determine if it is the solenoid. Also I did see the pressure switch in a parts diagram so this weekend I’ll check it too and clean it out for good measure.

Again thanks!! So appreciate all the feedback and knowledge from everyone. I refuse to give up on it, even as the Base Model it cleans better than any newer dishwasher I’ve owned.

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• #11

And the saga continues-the control switch shows corrosion and burnt wires that come from the timer. Now I’m looking for a new(er) control switch just for safety, cleaned the contacts etc but can’t recall if when the timer was originally changed if the old wires were used or the new ones that came with it. Will be looking for gaskets once I find where water could be getting into the door from. The gasket under the soap dispenser is brittle, the door seal seems in good shape but could also have brittle sections I haven’t found yet, etc.

Did figure out why the soap dispenser “door” doesn’t work, the pin slipped so closing the door doesn’t connect at the right spot to bring the arm down for it to open during washing cycle - removed to fix and found the brittle gasket under it.

Any thoughts from veterans on the forum are appreciated. Specifically what would work around the inner door screws for a water tight seal or good place to find replacement gaskets or parts that would work in place of original ones.

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• #12

The difference between the 17 series and 17A is 17A added the Enegy Saver dry option.

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• #13

Last edited: Today at 10:29

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• #14

You found the problem where the number 14 wire is burned off the selector switch.

The replacement timers for the KDC and KDI 17 dishwashers came with replacement wires because this was a big problem on that model, they used poor quality terminals. You may have to replace the push-button selector switch if the male terminal is too burned and loose.

If you still have the wires that came with the replacement timer use those otherwise you can make some up use at least 14 gauge wire with some high-quality female terminals on the ends.

I usually just reseal the detergent dispenser in place with a high-quality RTV type silicone, sealant or marine sealant. That will stop any leaks.

It’s very unlikely that door gasket will ever need replacing. They generally did not fail in the life of the machine.

John L

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• #15

*Are you located in the US?

My research shows a new switch is part# 113633 with the superseded part# 4161202. I don’t show anything for a 115465.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/155481475384​

Edit: Just saw it’s a KDC-17A, that’s a 115506 superseded to a 4161441.

I only see one switch available at a whopping $109 from Canada.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/266185658449

Thanks I was able to find a 3 button switch new still in the package $7.99 each; since the seller had 2 my husband decided we needed them both just in case. Once this is finished will likely have spare parts that I might be able to share later.

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• #16

You found the problem where the number 14 wire is burned off the selector switch.

The replacement timers for the KDC and KDI 17 dishwashers came with replacement wires because this was a big problem on that model, they used poor quality terminals. You may have to replace the push-button selector switch if the male terminal is too burned and loose.

If you still have the wires that came with the replacement timer use those otherwise you can make some up use at least 14 gauge wire with some high-quality female terminals on the ends.

I usually just reseal the detergent dispenser in place with a high-quality RTV type silicone, sealant or marine sealant. That will stop any leaks.

It’s very unlikely that door gasket will ever need replacing. They generally did not fail in the life of the machine.

John L

Thank you John L.

The unopened timer I just received has 2 new 14 gauge wires that came with it; so I’ll go back and check the selector switch for loose male terminals. I found and ordered a 3 button selector switch so if the original one doesn’t feel safe to me I’ll install it and the new timer. Since I am not finding any wire harnesses specific to this model, I will just go buy new wires based on the gauge, and higher quality female terminals and make my own to replace if necessary, specifically for piece of mind and safety.

Silently laughing at myself about the RTV silicone as I have marine sealant I used for another home improvement project and must have been totally anxious because of the burned wires that I didn’t even think about it - even after my husband asked me how many gaskets I’ve made when working on vintage cars.

Thanks everyone again for setting me straight - I’m excited to keep this base model KDC-17A running because I don’t want to spend $500 plus for a new model that just doesn’t do the job that this one does.

Anna