It began in the 1870s. On Saturday afternoons, wagons loaded with produce, meat, poultry, bread, and seafood would arrive at the center of a growing tenement neighborhood on Ninth Avenue and 42nd Street.

Rows of trucks, wheelbarrows, and pushcarts would also park themselves of Ninth Avenue, displaying cheap delicacies like salted fish, mutton necks, pig heads, cabbage, and turnips and angering brick and mortar store owners selling similar products at higher prices.

The vendors unloaded their goods and posted signs, ignoring the store owners. Torches were lit to illuminate the street. By 8 p.m., under the rattling and rumbling of the elevated train, what was known as Paddy’s Market would open for business.

For the next three hours, thousands of working-class and poor residents fr…

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