Italian luxury fashion brand Prada is set to launch a limited-edition collection of footwear, it claims has been inspired from India’s Kolhapuri sandals despite a massive controversy.

Prada announced its plans to sell the footwear after signing a memorandum of understanding with Indian leather development corporations of Karnataka and Maharashtra states despite facing backlash for allegedly appropriating the decades-old traditional Indian footwear.

Lorenzo Bertelli, Prada’s head of corporate social responsibility said, the brand will “mix the original manufacturer’s standard capabilities with our manufacturing techniques.

The collection will go on sale in February 2026 across 40 Prada stores worldwide and online, the company said.

The Italian luxury group plans to make 2,000 pairs of the sandals in the regions of Maharashtra and Karnataka under a deal with two state-backed bodies, blending local Indian craftsmanship with Italian technology and know-how.

The brand planned to sell each pair at around 800 euros ($930).

Earlier this year, Prada faced criticism after showing sandals resembling 12th-century Indian footwear, known as Kolhapuri chappals, at a Milan show. Photos went viral, prompting outrage from Indian artisans and politicians. Prada later admitted its design drew from ancient Indian styles and began talks with artisan groups for collaboration.

It has now signed an agreement with Sant Rohidas Leather Industries and Charmakar Development Corporation (LIDCOM) and Dr Babu Jagjivan Ram Leather Industries Development Corporation (LIDKAR), which promote India’s leather heritage.

“We want to be a multiplier of awareness for these chappals,” said Bertelli, who is the eldest son of Prada founders Miuccia Prada and Patrizio Bertelli.

A three-year partnership, whose details are still being finalised, will be set up to train local artisans. The initiative will include training programmes in India and opportunities to spend short periods at Prada’s Academy in Italy.

Chappals originated in Maharashtra and Karnataka and are handcrafted by people from marginalised communities. Artisans hope the collaboration will raise incomes, attract younger generations to the trade and preserve heritage threatened by cheap imitations and declining demand.

“Once Prada endorses this craft as a luxury product, definitely the domino effect will work and result in increasing demand for the craft," said Prerna Deshbhratar, LIDCOM managing director.

Bertelli said the project and training programme would cost "several million euros", adding that artisans would be fairly remunerated.

Bertelli said Prada, which opened its first beauty store in Delhi this year, has no plans for new retail clothing shops next year or factories in India.

“We have not planned yet any store openings in India, but it’s something that we are strongly taking into consideration," he said, adding that this could come in three to five years.

The luxury goods market in India was valued at around $7bn in 2024 and is expected to reach about $30bn by 2030, according to Deloitte, as economic growth accelerates to 7 per cent this year and disposable income among the middle and upper classes rises. The market, however, is dwarfed by China, which generated about 350bn yuan ($49.56bn) in value in 2024, according to Bain.

Most global brands have entered India through partnerships with large conglomerates like Mukesh Ambani’s Reliance group and Kumar Mangalam Birla’s Aditya Birla Group.

Bertelli said that Prada would prefer to enter the country on its own, even if it took longer, describing India as "the real potential new market".