On March 27, 1964, a converted liberty ship named the SS Chena brought a shipment of supplies to the port of Valdez, Alaska. Valdez, which I need you to know is pronounced “valDEEZ,” sits at the end of a fjord—a narrow inlet carved by a glacier. The town accreted there, more than being carefully sited and built, mostly as a result of a massive gold-rush scam. It’s the northernmost ice-free deepwater port in the US, which makes it important, but it’s a tiny town: in 1964, only about 1,200 people lived there. When the Chena arrived for its regular supply delivery, people gathered at the dock to watch it, and to catch the candy and oranges the crew always tossed out to the kids.

A little while later, about 15 miles unde…

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