Why It Works

• While pan de jamón is traditionally made in multiple loaves, this scaled-down version produces a single, generously filled loaf.
• Using bread flour, with its higher protein content, creates a stronger gluten network that supports the weight of the filling and helps the loaf hold its shape.
• Resting the dough after the initial mix allows the flour to fully hydrate and begin forming gluten before salt, sugar, and butter are added, improving dough strength.

Come holiday season, Venezuelan kitchens fill with the scent of hallacas, pernil, ensalada de gallina, and pan de jamón. Just as meaningful as the dishes themselves is the act of making them together, and no table feels complete without a slice of this sweet-savory loaf. Early versions of pan de jamón, dating to the beginning of the 20th century in Caracas, were simple yeast breads filled with ham alone; over time, olives, raisins, and bacon were added, creating the sweet-salty balance that now defines Venezuelan Christmas cooking. Most pan de jamón recipes are designed to feed a crowd and yield multiple loaves. This recipe takes a different approach, producing a single, generously sized loaf; ideal for smaller celebrations or for serving alongside other holiday dishes.

The dough is enriched with milk, butter, and sugar, but remains sturdy enough to hold its shape once filled and rolled. Hydration matters here. Too much liquid can weaken the dough and cause it to spread, while too much flour leads to a loaf that bakes up dense and heavy. I landed at 55% hydration, with moisture coming from a combination of water, milk, and one egg. Bread flour provides the structure needed to support the weight of all the holiday fillings, without compromising tenderness.

Although instant yeast can be mixed directly into dry ingredients, dissolving it first in warm water with a little sugar helps jump-start fermentation; particularly useful in enriched doughs, where fat and sugar naturally slow yeast activity. A short rest after the flour and liquids are combined allows the dough to fully hydrate and begin forming gluten before the butter, sugar, and salt are worked in. This small step improves strength with minimal mixing and results in a dough that’s smooth, supple, and easy to roll. Don’t be surprised at how shaggy the dough looks at this point.

The first rise is intentionally flexible. The dough can be left at room temperature for as two hours, or refrigerated overnight to improve handling and allow for a slower rise. Either option fits easily into holiday cooking.

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The filling stays close to the classic formula: thinly sliced smoked ham for depth and meatiness, bacon for fat and smoke, olives for a briny pop, and raisins for sweetness. The raisins add more than just sweetness, though. As the bread bakes, they plump and absorb some of the juices released by the ham, bacon, and olives, helping keep the crumb cohesive rather than soggy.

The loaf’s distinctive slitted edge is both decorative and functional. Cutting narrow strips along one side of the dough and folding them over the rolled loaf creates a flexible seam that can expand as the bread proofs and bakes. Instead of forcing the dough to stretch against a tight seal—often the cause of blowouts in heavily filled breads—the overlapping strips act like built-in expansion joints, accommodating oven spring while keeping the filling neatly enclosed. Before baking, poking the loaf all over with a fork creates small vents that allow steam to escape, further preventing ruptures and helping the bread rise evenly in the oven. The result is a loaf that holds its shape, slices cleanly, and looks unmistakably like pan de jamón.

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Served warm or at room temperature, pan de jamón is equally at home sliced alongside a holiday spread or enjoyed on its own, one spiral at a time. It’s bread meant to be shared, sliced thick or thin, and revisited throughout the day; proof that even a single loaf can carry the flavors and traditions of Billo Caracas Boys songs and Venezuelan Christmas.

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1 ¼ teaspoons (4 g) instant yeast

1/3 cup (67 g) granulated sugar, divided

1/4 cup (60 g) warm water

2 ¾ cups (325 g) bread flour

1/2 cup plus one tablespoon (120 g) whole milk, at room temperature

1 large egg, at room temperature

1/2 teaspoon kosher salt

3 tablespoons (43 g) unsalted butter at room temperature, cut into 1-tablespoon pieces

12 thin slices deli smoked ham

3 slices smoked uncured bacon (see note)

1/4 cup (30 g) raisins

1/2 cup pitted manzanilla olives, sliced, drained, and patted dry (see note)

1 tablespoon papelón, packed (see note)

In a small bowl, combine yeast, half of the sugar (8 teaspoons; 34 g), and water; stir to dissolve. Let rest until foamy, about 5 minutes.

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In a second small bowl, whisk 1/2 cup (120 g) milk and egg until combined. In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the dough hook, add the flour. With the mixer running on low speed, pour in the milk mixture and yeast mixture. Mix until a shaggy dough forms and no dry flour remains, about 2 minutes, scraping down the bowl as needed. Cover the mixer bowl and let the dough rest for 10 minutes.

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Set the mixer to medium speed, then add the remaining sugar and salt to dough and mix until incorporated, about 1 minute. With the mixer still on medium, add the butter 1 tablespoon at a time, letting each piece fully incorporate before adding the next, about 2 minutes total. Continue kneading until the dough is smooth and elastic, about 8 minutes. The dough will cling to the bottom of the bowl but should release cleanly from a spatula or your fingers.

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Transfer the dough to a lightly floured work surface and knead it to form a smooth ball for about 30 seconds. Place dough seam-side down in a lightly greased large bowl, cover tightly with plastic wrap, and refrigerate until the dough rises to a fuller dome, at least 2 hours and up to 24 hours.

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Punch down dough to deflate. Transfer onto a lightly floured surface, keeping seam side down, and let rest, covered, for 20 minutes.

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Pat the dough into a rough rectangle, then roll it into a 14-by-10-inch rectangle with a short (10-inch) side facing you. At the far short edge, lightly score a line 2 inches in from the edge across the width; this is your stop line. Along that far edge, lightly score 10 equal sections (each about 1 inch thick). Using a sharp knife or pizza wheel, cut from each mark straight toward the stop line, stopping at the line, to create a 2-inch-deep fringe.

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Shingle the ham to cover all the dough except the 2-inch fringe, overlapping the slices slightly in neat rows. Lay the bacon in long strips on top. Sprinkle the raisins and olives evenly over the ham.

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Starting from the edge closest to you, roll the dough tightly over the filling, making sure the first turn fully encloses and tucks the filling in. Continue rolling away from you into a tight cylinder, tightening the roll as you go. When you reach the fringe, lift each strip and pull it over the loaf, tucking the ends underneath so they adhere to the bottom of the roll; pinch lightly to secure. Transfer the loaf, seam side down, to a prepared baking sheet, cover loosely with plastic wrap, and let rise at warm room temperature until slightly puffy, about 30 minutes.

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In a small bowl, mix remaining milk with the papelón until dissolved; set aside.

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Adjust oven rack to middle position and heat oven to 350°F (175 °C). Pierce loaf all over with a fork, making at least 12 holes. Bake for 45 minutes, or until the center registers 185°F on an instant-read thermometer; tent with foil if browning too quickly. Remove loaf from oven, brush with milk glaze, and return to oven. Bake 5 minutes longer, until deeply golden. Let cool at least 20 minutes before slicing.

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Notes

Presliced olives can be used.

Papelon is a type of unrefined sugar. Brown sugar can be used as a substitute for papelón.

Make-Ahead and Storage

The dough can be refrigerated up to 24 hours in advance before shaping and baking.

The bread can be stored well-wrapped at room temperature for up to 3 days or frozen tightly wrapped for up to 2 months.