Befekadu Defar poses for a photo in Fasika Cafe Nov. 11. The cafe became well-known for their flavorful Ethiopian cuisine and coffee.

Just a 20-minute walk away from Northeastern’s Boston campus lies Fasika Cafe, a family-owned Ethiopian restaurant with only five tables. Despite its small space, the restaurant’s culture and smell of “korerima” (Ethiopian cardamom, chili, turmeric and coriander) fills the room.

Befekadu Defar, Fasika’s owner and head chef, is the mastermind behind the cuisine. He — along with his wife and occasionally his children — arrive at the cafe early in the morning to open the place and keep it running from 10 a.m. to 8 p.m. seven days a week.

“Whenever people come here, through our food, they know our background, our culture, home and what it looks like. We become ambassadors for our country,” Defar said.

Originally from Ethiopia, Defar studied at a hotel school, which prepared him for a career in hospitality. After receiving a scholarship, he then travelled to Switzerland to attend culinary school before moving to Boston in late 1993. He ran two Ethiopian restaurants in Jamaica Plain and Somerville before downsizing to the current Roxbury location.

“Ethiopian food is very seasoned with aroma and a lot of spices. It’s also more healthy. We don’t use any fried cooking at all. Most dishes are vegetarian and [if we do have] meats we don’t use much oil,” Defar said.

The food is traditionally served on a circular piece of injera, fermented flatbread made from teff flour. Teff grains are a staple in Ethiopian cuisine; they are gluten-free and rich in protein, iron and fiber.

“Ethiopian dishes cannot be served the traditional way without the injera. It’s a flatbread with a spongy texture. The bread is your spoon and fork,” he said.

When people new to Ethiopian food first learn to eat the Ethiopian way, Defar chuckled and said they find it “strange.” He smiled and laughed as he recalled newcomers using the injera as a burrito or as a piece of toast to spread food on top.

“I like the layout of it, like how it was placed on the injera. It was really good,” said 12-year-old Ylva, a cafe customer who brought her family and friends for lunch.

But it’s not just the injera that makes Ethiopian food unique.

“If you see, in Ethiopia, everything is in a circle: our traditional houses are circle huts, our stores, our plates. The family all comes together to eat from the same plates. There is no such thing as ‘This is my portion,’” Defar said.

Defar’s favorite aspect of Ethiopian cuisine, he said, is that each dish requires time to prepare, making Ethiopian food his craft.

“It’s not something you can make in five minutes. I can buy pasta and make it with no skills needed, but in Ethiopia, you cannot do that,” Defar said.

A plate of food rests on a table, ready. Customers often purchased lentils, greens and various protein to eat with injera. (Heidi Ho)

Defar explained that even if you have the lentils, greens and meat ready, the injera requires at least 24 to 48 hours of fermentation before it can be baked to eat.

Still, for this family, all the hard work pays off because their customers are happy.

“It has a lot of spices in it and it smells really good and tastes really good. I love spicy food. I liked the lentils and the beef and the chicken,” said 12-year-old Wanda, another cafe customer dining with Ylva. “The food went well with the bread.”

After discovering Fasika Cafe in The Boston Globe and online, the family came to eat at the restaurant for the first time.

“I was surprised that there was just a little bit of everything and how savory it is. I was overwhelmed with the menu, but when we were recommended the combo plate, it was perfect,” said Jordyne Wu, Wanda’s mother.

It’s not just the food that keeps customers coming to the cafe. Gerehiwet Mogos, a regular customer, first met Defar at one of his previous restaurants. Now, he comes to Fasika Cafe every day for one reason: the coffee.

“They have the best coffee, especially when [Defar] makes it. He gives it to you like a family member, not a business. That’s different from other places,” Mogos said.

Defar imports his coffee from Ethiopia. Once it’s in the US, he and his wife roast the coffee in-house to serve to customers.

“Ethiopia is the origin of coffee. The name ‘coffee’ comes from the region of Kaffa,” Defar said. He explained that coffee is a major part of Ethiopian culture. “It’s a whole ceremony when you make coffee.”

Whether you’re looking for coffee or a new place to eat and try a new culture’s food, Defar said his doors are always open.

“The community should know about this place. It’s not just a business. They take care of the community,’’ Mogos said.

About the Contributor

Heidi Ho (high-dee-hoe) is a second-year student at Northeastern University pursuing a combined degree in public health and journalism. She is passionate about science, storytelling and social justice. In her free time, she can be seen at restaurants trying new cuisines, dancing or reading.