‘It’s more exciting than ketchup!’ How chilli crisp became the hottest condiment – and how to make your own (opens in new tab)

This crunchy, spicy wonder has made a fortune for its Chinese creator – and inspired hundreds of British-Asian versions. Time to get tasting …Walk down the specialist aisle in most British supermarkets and you will find a red jar with the kindly face of a middle-aged Chinese woman staring back at you. Branded Lao Gan Ma, meaning “old godmother”, these jars contain chilli crisp – a spicy, crunchy and moreish umami condiment that has made for Tao Huabi, the woman on the label. Doused over steam...