Japan has long marketed itself with the promise of “Endless Discovery.” For visitors, that promise often feels true.

As a tourist, Japan is astonishingly smooth. Trains run on time, service is attentive, streets feel safe, and daily inconveniences are quietly absorbed by a system designed to welcome you.

But what happens when you’re no longer a tourist, but a resident?

From grizzled veterans who have been here since the Shōwa era to those who just got their first hanko, everyone can agree on one thing: living and traveling in Japan are two very different things. The tourist’s form of omotenashi is how neatly your gifts get wrapped. The resident has a train to catch before rush hour, and is thankful the clerk didn’t even both…

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