In an unassuming unit on the edge of Newcastle’s city centre lies one of the English North East’s most important dancefloors. There’s no signage outside, or advertising, and on weekends it is only identifiable by a queue of punters slowly filing through its black doors.

Known to some as ​“HQ” or ​“Worldies” to its regulars, World Headquarters is Newcastle’s longest running underground club, and where the city first found its dancing pulse over three decades ago.

In the 1980s, the club’s founder, Tom Caulker, was then a young music fan paying close attention to the city’s nightlife. Born and raised in Newcastle, he came of age within a nightlife ecosystem that mirrored the city’s established social order.

“The scene in Newcastle was really white and mainstream – all the big breweries owned everywhere, and all the clubs were [filled with] white people. It’s not like Liverpool or Bristol where you’ve got a large Black community. So having been born here and being a Black person, there wasn’t really anywhere for me to go, and I suffered from a lot of racism. I couldn’t get in anywhere because I was Black, and I didn’t want to because they weren’t playing the sort of music I liked.”

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It was also dangerous. ​“Gangster families would run the doors of clubs, and if you fell out with them, you’d get a beating,” he recalls. ​“It was very violent – I’ve had people stick knives into my neck when I’ve been playing records. Working in different clubs I’ve seen savage beatings, really, really savage things. The police were redundant”

Wanting to find an alternative form of partying, Caulker began organising free parties. ​“Me and a friend of mine, Bobby, wanted to put on illegal parties. We didn’t see them as illegal. This was before the Criminal Justice Bill – before any sort of legislation against having big, organised gatherings.”

Working at a bar named The Trent House at the time, Caulker was able to use it as a base to advertise parties to friends. In 1986, that network culminated into their largest yet.

“We had one at the beach up in Northumberland where 700 people came. We took space invaders, pool tables and invaded the beach for a night, and had a great big party.” Taking place at Druridge Bay, it revealed what was missing from Newcastle’s nightlife: a large-scale space free from racism, misogyny, or violence.

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“We kept out the mainstream and welcomed the people who were viewed by society as the ‘freaks’, the ‘darkies’ and the ‘homos’. We provided somewhere where those people could come and feel safe.” Tom Caulker, World Headquarters founder

Shortly after, the ​’90s brought two things to Newcastle: ecstasy and house music. Laws and regulation followed closely behind. Where free parties had once operated under the radar, the 1994 Criminal Justice Act criminalised large, unlicensed gatherings, clamping down on the scene that Caulker and his friends carved out for themselves.

“I got to the point of thinking: ​‘I’m going to have to open my own club, so I could do it my way and make it really safe.’”

In 1993, Caulker opened World Headquarters. Despite its lack of advertising, it quickly became the beating heart of Newcastle’s underground scene. Regulars from Caulker’s raves transferred their word-of-mouth culture to the venue, and their community thrived in the shadows.

“We kept out the mainstream and welcomed the people who were viewed by society as the ​‘freaks’, the ​‘darkies’ and the ​‘homos’. We provided somewhere where those people could come and feel safe.”

For Caulker, the club was also a musical refuge. ​“I was able to play the music I wanted to play,” he says. ​“I’d book Frankie Knuckles, David Morales, Robert Owens – pillars of house music, and funk DJs I liked. Alongside that you had young kids coming through who were bringing jungle, drum & bass, grime. Eventually it got to the point where almost everybody who was anybody had played at World Headquarters over the years.”

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In curating sounds that rarely reached Newcastle’s nightlife, World Headquarters offered a radical alternative to the city’s conformity: ​“Outside the step was Thatcher’s Britain, and inside was World Headquarters.”

After 10 years, the club moved to new premises, retaining its commitment to lack of signage, where it has now been for 22 years. The current location boasts two floors, with dark green walls adorned with murals of the likes of Frank Zappa, Muhammed Ali, and Charles Darwin.

“We were able to position ourselves as a really strong underground,” he says. ​“It’s a peaceful place where you can come and you can be alright. Where if you’re a woman, you can feel safe, where if you’re Black, you can feel safe, where if you’re white, you can feel safe, and you can feel like you’re one of the people who is on the right side of the line. And that metaphorical line is our front door – I don’t think there is a World Headquarters anywhere else in the world.”

Since its opening, the club has continued to evolve, pushing new sounds and scenes as culture has developed. Part of that has come with consistently giving the city’s youth opportunities to create their own scenes, irrespective of their popularity at the time.

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“Outside the step was Thatcher’s Britain, and inside was World Headquarters.” Tom Caulker, World Headquarters founder

Caulker talks about a young promoter who started a grime night at the club, platforming now huge artists like AJ Tracey during their come ups. ​“That idea of culture growing from the ground upwards, from the streets upwards, it has to grow and be nurtured somewhere,” he says.

“It’s about more than money; it’s about giving opportunities to young people to develop and grow and build their own scenes. And ensuring that the raving and club culture is still rooted in the ground, and is coming up through young people.”

With the North East frequently left out of national acknowledgement, it’s often skipped on touring routes by bigger artists, and overshadowed by the traditional culture capitals of London, Manchester, and Bristol. But the geographical distance has become an accidental advantage, allowing a scene to evolve from World Headquarters on its own terms. The city’s isolation has reduced trend-chasing and industry interference, licensing a distinctly Geordie approach to underground music.

Compared with the commercialised rave model in bigger cities – a sea of phones at Warehouse Project and Boiler Room’s inflated ticket prices – Newcastle’s scene thrives quietly, with ravers staying loyal to grassroots venues like World Headquarters.

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In 2021, the club welcomed Big Fat Rave, an event led by duo founders Jack Cooper and Kurtis Parkin wanting to capture the spirit of the ​’90s free party scene.

Looking back on his own introduction to raving, Parkin remembers stumbling into an illegal rave by accident. ​“300 people, two sound systems blasting gabber, hardcore, jungle, and drum & bass. That was my first taste of it, and I fell in love right then.”

The event’s origins trace back to a makeshift sound system and a sign literally advertising a ​“big fat rave”, with World Headquarters giving them the canvas to express themselves. ​“It was one of the first venues here to really embrace the kind of music we love, stuff that used to be on the fringes. They gave it a home when no one else would. So it was the perfect place for us to start, because there really wasn’t anywhere else that would have let us do it the way we wanted to,” says Cooper. ​“There is something magical about the natural rave energy from Geordies.”

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Nights at Big Fat Rave are exactly what it says on the tin. Cooper says: ​“Bass heavy and genre bending. People tend to feel the music as well as hear the music.”

Decades of experimentation have shaped Newcastle’s underground into a refuge for everyone in the city, and especially for those living on the fringes. For Caulker, it all comes back to a simple philosophy.

“I always say: ​‘Being friendly and playing great records is enough.’ And that’s what we did.”

Olivia Fee is a freelance journalist. Follow her on Instagram.

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