Why It Works

• Slowly adding the sugar to the egg whites while whipping ensures it will dissolve properly.
• Whisking the meringue at a lower speed for longer results in a stronger, more stable foam that’s less likely to deflate.
• Seltzer lightens the dense paste of egg yolks, oil, and flour to minimize deflation of the meringue as you fold the cake batter.

When I lived in Toronto, there was a Japanese coffee shop called NEO Coffee Bar several blocks away from my apartment. They made exquisite sweets and sandwiches: Their glass case was filled with sandos, mochi, choux pastries, and roll cakes. I spent hours there reading, sipping on hojicha lattes, and nibbling on their matcha roll cake, a tender, bittersweet green chiffon sponge swirled with lightly sweetened whipped cream. It’s been almost a decade since I’ve lived in Toronto, but I still think about that matcha cake.

Inspired by the cake I miss so much, I decided to make my own. Like all chiffon cakes, I separate the egg yolks and whites, whip the whites with sugar until they’ve doubled in volume, then gently fold them into a mixture of egg yolks, oil, and the dry ingredients. The recipe below borrows from former editor Stella Parks’ classic chiffon cake recipe: I use a similar ingredient ratio but tweak the method slightly.

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Whereas Stella starts her batter by combining egg whites and all the sugar from the get-go for a dense meringue, I take a different route by dividing the sugar: I reduce the amount added to the egg whites and incorporate the sugar gradually to create a slightly lighter foam that’s both easier to fold with the remaining ingredients and spread into a even layer when it goes into the rimmed baking sheet. That consistent thickness is crucial for rolling the cake later and will give you the most uniform swirl.

Another essential element of making the batter is the kind of matcha you use. I recommend using a good-quality matcha powder, as that will determine how flavorful your cake will be. Whichever route you go, be sure the matcha you use isn’t blended with sugar or milk powder, as that introduces variables you can’t control for and will impact how your cake turns out. Last but not least: Sift, sift, sift. A lump or two of matcha won’t make or break your cake, but it’s worth taking the time to sift the matcha—along with the flour and baking powder—for the smoothest possible batter.

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Once the cake is baked, you’ll want to keep it nice and moist so it stays pliable for rolling. This may be the most intimidating step, but I assure you it’s anything but, thanks to one of Stella’s clever tricks. Simply cover the rimmed baking sheet with foil to tightly seal the cake once it comes out of the oven, which will trap steam as the cake gradually cools. Once the cake is thoroughly cooled, it’ll still be moist and pliable enough to roll.

Though the matcha cake I love so much from NEO Coffee Bar is filled with lightly sweetened whipped cream, I wanted to give it even more matcha flavor by incorporating the tea into the filling as well. On its own, whipped cream is very light and can be tricky to roll without making a big mess. Here, I include mascarpone, which provides a subtle tanginess and just enough structure to make rolling and assembling the cake a touch easier.

Now I need to perfect my hojicha latte game.

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For the Cake:

4 ounces (113 g) egg whites from 4 large eggs

1/2 teaspoon Diamond Crystal kosher salt; for table salt, use half as much by volume or same weight

142 g granulated sugar (5 ounces; about 2/3 cups), divided

128 g all-purpose flour (4 1/2 ounces; 1 cup)

1 teaspoon baking powder

1 tablespoon (5 g) matcha powder

56 g egg yolks (2 ounces) from 4 large eggs

56 g neutral oil (2 ounces; about 1/4 cup), such as vegetable

85 g cold seltzer or club soda (3 ounces; about 1/3 cup)

2 teaspoons (10 g) vanilla extract

To Assemble:

1/2 cup mascarpone (4 ounces; 113 g)

2 cups (480 ml) heavy cream

1/4 teaspoon vanilla extract

1/4 teaspoon Diamond Crystal kosher salt; for table salt, use half as much by volume

42 g powdered sugar (about 1 1/2 ounces; 3 tablespoons), plus more as needed

1 1/2 tablespoons (7 g) matcha powder

To Serve:

Powdered sugar, for dusting

**For the Cake: **Adjust oven rack to middle position and preheat oven to 350°F (180°C). Line a 13-by-18-inch rimmed baking sheet with parchment; set aside.

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In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the whisk attachment, combine egg whites and salt. Whisk on medium speed until egg whites begin to foam, then, with mixer continuing to run at medium speed, slowly and steadily pour in 1/2 cup sugar (100 g; about 3 1/2 ounces). Continue to whisk until meringue is glossy and reaches medium-stiff peaks, about 8 minutes.

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In a large bowl, whisk egg yolks, oil, seltzer, vanilla extract, and remaining 3 tablespoons sugar (42 g; 1 1/2 ounces) until smooth. Using a fine-mesh strainer, sift in flour, baking powder, and matcha, and whisk to combine. Pour 1/3 of the meringue into the yolk mixture, and gently whisk until homogeneous and smooth. Pour in the remaining meringue, and, using a flexible spatula, fold meringue into batter until well combined and no white streaks remain. Do not overmix: Batter should be light, fluffy, and voluminous. Clean the mixing bowl, then set it aside.

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Scrape batter onto prepared baking sheet and bake until cake is puffed, firm to the touch, but retains a slight indent when gently pressed, about 12 minutes.

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Remove cake from oven and immediately cover pan with two large strips of oil, using a kitchen towel or oven mitt to carefully crimp foil around the edges. Allow cake to cool to room temperature (approximately 70°F/21°C), 25 to 30 minutes.

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While Cake Is Cooling, Prepare the Filling: In the now-clean mixing bowl of the stand mixer fitted with the whisk attachment, whisk mascarpone on medium speed until smooth, about 1 minute. Add heavy cream, vanilla extract, and salt. Using a fine-mesh sieve, sift in matcha and powdered sugar. Whip on medium speed until stiff peaks form, 3 to 4 minutes.

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Uncover cake and, using a butter knife or offset spatula, loosen edges of the cooled cake. Using an offset spatula, spread mascarpone and cream mixture into an even 1/2-inch-thick layer over the cake. (You may have extra filling; that is OK. Reserve for another use.)

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Position the cake so the long end is closest to you. Using the parchment as a handle, lift that edge of the cake and make a gentle first fold (about 1 inch) so the cake starts to curl over itself. Keep rolling away from you, using the parchment to lift and guide the cake into a tight, even spiral; the parchment will naturally peel away as you go.

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After rolling, transfer the cake seam side down to a large platter, dust with powdered sugar, and, using a sharp chefs knife or serrated knife, portion into 1-inch slices. Serve right away. (For cleaner cuts, wipe knife with a kitchen or paper towel before portioning each slice.)

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Special Equipment

13-by18-inch rimmed baking sheet, stand mixer, fine-mesh sieve, offset spatula,

Make-Ahead and Storage

The cake can be made, tightly wrapped in plastic, and refrigerated up to 1 day in advance. Let cake come to room temperature and dust with powdered sugar before serving.

Leftover cake can be tightly wrapped in plastic and refrigerated for up to 3 days, but it may become slightly drier.

Nutrition Facts (per serving)
273	Calories
18g	Fat
25g	Carbs
3g	Protein

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Nutrition Facts Servings: 16 Amount per serving Calories 273 % Daily Value* 18g 23% Saturated Fat 9g 46% 80mg 27% 140mg 6% 25g 9% Dietary Fiber 0g 1% Total Sugars 19g 3g Vitamin C 0mg 1% Calcium 49mg 4% Iron 1mg 3% Potassium 61mg 1% *The % Daily Value (DV) tells you how much a nutrient in a food serving contributes to a daily diet. 2,000 calories a day is used for general nutrition advice.

(Nutrition information is calculated using an ingredient database and should be considered an estimate.)