At Gloagburn Farm, in Perthshire, the kitchen is a busy place, full of people coming and going, sitting down to a plate of hot beef stew, grabbing an egg mayonnaise roll from the fridge or hurrying back out to the tractor with a flask of tea in one hand and freshly made shortbread in the other.

Cooking has always been at the heart of our family life – a way to fill up hungry workers, to break up the long days and to celebrate Christmases and birthdays with our family and friends.

I learnt early on that good, fresh, wholesome ingredients are the most important part of any meal. Sitting down with family to appreciate homemade food has always been part of our day-to-day life. I’ve always believed in traditional ways of cooking and baking, valuing the effort and care that go into making food from scratch. I love fluffy cakes that require a light touch, a really fresh salad, a good hearty steak pie. I love seasonal vegetables and making stock to use in soups and stews. We are so lucky to live in Perthshire, a Garden of Eden where an abundance of fresh produce is available to us.

In the spring, we focus on tender greens, asparagus, wild garlic and local rhubarb, using them in quiches, tarts and souffles. In summer, there is nothing better than using the fresh berries that Perthshire is famous for to make strawberry tarts, or using ripe Scottish tomatoes and courgettes in fresh salads to have alongside a barbecue.

By the end of August, the kitchen starts to smell of stews, pies and warming soups made from root vegetables and grains. Into winter time, potatoes, parsnips and onions take centre-stage, with slow-cooked dishes such as beef bourguignon, stovies and spicy curries. And I love the smell of festive spices when baking treats such as apple and mincemeat pies.

Growing up in a farming family myself, I experienced firsthand the ethos of hard work. My dad, Sandy, dedicated every day to the farm, instilling in us a focus on always building and investing in your craft. With three brothers out working at the farm, I was often in the kitchen helping my mum, Helen, with the cooking and baking. Mum’s recipes were a mix of tradition and experimentation – hearty soups made from whatever vegetables were in season, gluts of berries and fruit preserved into jams and chutneys – and she was always keen to try something new. These early lessons in the kitchen shaped my love for cooking and my belief in the power of food to bring people together.

Gloagburn has been in the Niven family for generations, evolving through the years as each new custodian adapted to the needs of the land. That sense of continuity and care has always been central to life here. Today, my husband, Ian, carries forward the legacy of his father and grandfather.

Over the past 60 years Gloagburn has specialised in producing spring barley and spring oat seeds, as well as growing barley to feed the cattle, and wheat, some of which feeds our hens. Grain is also sold on to Scottish distillers and maltsters for beer and whisky making. The rich agricultural heritage at Gloagburn and the quality ingredients produced here are the foundation for many of the recipes featured in this book.

More than a cookbook – Gloagburn is a portrait of a farm, a family and a century of cooking rooted in Perthshire soil (Kitchen Press)

I always dreamt of creating a coffee shop on the farm. It began small, with a spark of curiosity and a few hens bought for our eldest son, Fergus. He soon started carrying a tray of eggs on the school bus to sell to his teacher. As word spread, the demand grew and we bought more hens. Our distribution expanded to local hotels, restaurants and shops, and we took on a stall at the local farmers’ market, often run by one of our children on a Saturday morning. We also started selling homemade jams and chutneys from a small shop on the side of the garage, giving us opportunities to connect with customers. These early efforts laid the foundation for what was to come.

In the early 2000s, grain prices hit rock bottom and farming became even more of a struggle. We were treading water and started to think seriously about how we could make the most of what we had to support our family in a more substantial way. When some government farm grants became available in 2003, we took what felt like an enormous leap to build a café and shop. We started with a simple structure, a little bit of paint and a lot of ingenuity, offering eggs, oats, crates of potatoes, turnips, parsnips, seasonal vegetables and local berries alongside coffees, soups and sandwiches.

We could never have imagined how it would take off, and by 2004 we were already expanding. Over time, we added more and more staff and built more retail and café space. The soups and sandwiches became an all-day menu with breakfast, brunch and specials, and of course, our now-famous Twice Baked Souffles.

As the years passed, the farm shop grew steadily but always retained its original spirit. Running Gloagburn Farm Shop has always been a family affair. All four of our children had their first jobs here, whether as waitresses, kitchen porters, sorting Christmas orders or helping out wherever they were needed. Their involvement has helped keep the business rooted in the values we started with.

The farm and shop have grown and evolved over the years, but our core values remain the same. We’ve always worked seven days a week – it’s part of the farming lifestyle – and we’re committed to keeping our standards and quality high. It’s true that the last cup of tea or the quality of a meal is what our customers remember, and we take pride in ensuring every experience at Gloagburn is memorable for all the right reasons.

For Niven, the kitchen has always been where family life and farming intersect – a place for feeding workers, celebrating milestones and passing on recipes (Clair Irwin)

We’ve always believed in bootstrapping the business, finding creative ways to make the most of what we have, and maintaining a hands-on approach to everything we do. That resourcefulness has shaped every stage of our journey.

This cookbook is another dream that we could never have imagined becoming reality when we first began. The thought was planted a few years back, but with Gloagburn turning 100 and the shop now over 20 years old, the time felt right. I began the process by trawling through my mother’s hand-written recipe book and my granny’s old scrapbooks to revisit the food of my childhood that had become staples in my own family.

I gathered recipes from Ian’s mother, Rita, who has witnessed so much change at Gloagburn over the years, and whose contributions remain a cherished part of what we do. I made and remade the farm shop’s most popular dishes, enjoying the memories of characters and stories that they triggered. It has been invigorating and I am very proud of the results.

This cookbook is more than just a collection of recipes; it’s a reflection of our journey and the community that has supported us along the way. It’s a celebration of the people, the produce and the spirit that makes Gloagburn special. Whether they are recipes that have passed down through our family or newer creations that have become beloved features of our farm shop menu, what they all have in common is a focus on fresh, local ingredients and the joy of sharing good food with others.

Thank you for being part of our story. We hope these recipes bring a little of Gloagburn’s warmth into your own kitchen.

Twice-baked cheddar souffle

The twice-baked cheddar souffle that regulars travel for – proof that classic cooking, done well, never goes out of fashion (Clair Irwin)

These souffles have been made in the thousands in our restaurant, and are without a doubt our most popular dish. The standard version is this cheese souffle but we also do variations – smoked haddock or wild garlic are both big favourites. The twice-baked method makes souffle-making much less stressful – you precook them and then just need to scatter with cheese and pour over some cream before you bake a second time and serve. It works really well for us in the café, and it makes it much easier at home too.

Serves: 4

Ingredients:

*290ml milk *

*Slice of onion *

*Pinch of nutmeg *

*45g butter *

*45g flour *

*Pinch of dry English mustard *

*110g Isle of Mull Cheddar, grated (or any other good strong traditional cheddar) *

*3 medium eggs, separated *

*190ml single cream *

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

You’ll also need:

*Four 10cm ramekins, generously buttered and bases lined with a circle of greaseproof paper *

Method:

1. Preheat the oven to 180C/160C fan/gas mark 4.

2. In a small pan, heat the milk slowly with the onion and nutmeg until it’s steaming. Remove the onion.

3. Melt the butter in another pan on a medium heat, then stir in the flour and cook for a few minutes to make a roux. Off the heat, gradually whisk in the hot milk, then put the pan back on a medium heat and stir the sauce continuously until it comes to a simmer and thickens. Mix in the mustard and 80g of the cheese, then let it cool for 5 minutes before beating in the egg yolks. Season to taste with salt and freshly ground black pepper, then scrape it into a large bowl.

4. In a clean, dry bowl, whisk the egg whites until stiff. With a large metal spoon, fold a heaped tablespoonful into the cheese sauce until it’s well incorporated, then carefully fold through the remaining whites, taking care to knock out as little air as possible.

5. Spoon the souffle mix into your prepared ramekins so they are two-thirds full. Stand the ramekins in a roasting tin, then pour cold water into the tin so it comes halfway up the ramekins. Bake for 15 minutes or until the mixture is well risen and golden, then remove the ramekins from the roasting tin and set them aside to sink and cool.

6. Once the souffles are cold, run a knife round the inside of the ramekins to loosen them and turn them out onto your hand with a sharp jerk. Peel off the greaseproof paper and put the souffles upside down on a tray – at this point you can keep them in the fridge for up to 24 hours, covered by clingfilm.

7. Twenty minutes before serving, preheat the oven to 220C/200C fan/gas mark 7. Put the souffles upside down on a serving dish, then sprinkle the remaining 30g cheese on top. Season the cream with salt and black pepper, then pour it over so the souffles are completely coated. Bake for 10 minutes or until the tops are pale gold, then serve immediately before they sink.

Smoked haddock, leek and cheddar tart

A cafe staple that refuses to budge from the menu – smoky, savoury and built around Scottish ingredients (Clair Irwin)

A slice of tart makes the perfect lunch at any time of year and this one is so popular in the café that we can’t take it off the menu.

Serves: 4-6

Ingredients:

*25g butter *

*1 small onion, finely chopped *

*1 small leek, thinly sliced *

*1 x 22cm savoury pastry case, baked *

*200g smoked haddock, cut into 1.5cm chunks *

*85g Cheddar, grated *

*2 tbsp chopped parsley *

3 eggs and 1 egg yolk

*150ml milk *

*100ml double cream *

*Salt and freshly ground black pepper *

Method:

1. Preheat the oven to 150C/130C fan/gas mark 2.

2. Melt the butter in a frying pan over a medium heat, then add the chopped onion and the leek and cook until they’re soft and translucent, 5 to 10 minutes.

3. Put the onion and leek in the base of the pastry case in an even layer, then follow with a layer of raw smoked haddock. Scatter over the Cheddar and chopped parsley, then put the tart on a baking tray.

4. In a jug or bowl, mix together the whole eggs, egg yolk, milk and cream and season with salt and freshly ground black pepper. Pour the eggs into the pastry case – it will be quite full – and carefully transfer it to the oven to bake for 40 minutes, until the filling is set. Leave to cool in the tin before serving.

Potato scones

A Scottish breakfast classic that says everything about Gloagburn’s approach: simple, practical and deeply comforting (Clair Irwin)

A Scottish classic, these tattie scones are the perfect accompaniment to any breakfast spread and a great way to use up leftover mash. Traditionally you dry fry them, but they’re also delicious cooked in bacon fat.

Makes: 12 scones

Ingredients:

*500g floury potatoes, peeled and halved *

*55g butter *

*110g self-raising flour *

*Salt and freshly ground black pepper *

Method:

1. Place the potatoes in a pan with some salt and enough cold water to cover and bring to the boil. Boil gently for 15 to 20 minutes or until the potatoes break apart easily when pierced with a fork.

2. Drain the potatoes in a colander and then let them air dry for a few minutes. Mash them with a potato masher or ricer, then add the butter and fork it through the potatoes. Season with salt and plenty of freshly ground black pepper.

3. Beat in the flour with a wooden spoon – if the mix still looks a bit wet you may want to add a little more flour.

4. Put the potato dough onto a floured work surface, knead it lightly and cut in half. Roll each piece out to a circle about 20cm across and 5mm thick, then cut into six equal wedges.

5. Warm a non-stick frying pan or girdle over a medium heat. Working in batches, dry fry the scones in the hot pan for 4 to 5 minutes on each side, until golden brown.

6. Eat warm with a slather of butter, or in a roll with sausage and bacon.

Tip: For cheesy potato scones, add about 50g grated mature Cheddar to the mashed potatoes. To make these gluten-free, substitute the flour with a gluten-free flour. For vegan potato scones, use a dairy-free/ vegan margarine.

‘Gloagburn: Recipes from a Scottish Farm’ by Alison Niven (Kitchen Press, £25)