For me, the best winter cooking is about comfort, warmth and connection – food that feels familiar, yet still tells a story. I’ve always been drawn to dishes that celebrate simple, honest ingredients and local tradition, and these two recipes are inspired by that spirit, and by a childhood spent doing lots of fishing in Wales. The seafood cawl is a lighter, coastal take on the Welsh classic, while the rarebit is rich and nostalgic. Both are designed to be cooked slowly and shared generously, and an ode to home kitchens, good produce and quiet moments around the table.

Cawl of the sea (smoked haddock, leeks and barley – pictured top)

This is a fishy twist on the national dish of Wales, a hearty stew that’s traditionally made with meat and root vegetables.

Prep **15 min **Cook 1 hr 10 min Serves 4

2 tbsp butter 2 leeks, trimmed, finely sliced, washed and drained 2 garlic cloves, peeled and finely chopped 1 celery stick, trimmed and finely diced Sea salt and black pepper 150g pearl barley 150ml dry cider 1 litre fish stock, or vegetable stock 400g undyed smoked haddock fillet 100ml double cream 1 tbsp wholegrain mustard 1 tbsp chopped dill 1 tbsp dill oil (optional, to serve; to make it, simply blitz 20g dill in 20g sunflower oil, leave to infuse, then fine-strain through muslin and store in a clean jar in the fridge for up to two months)** Lemon wedges**, to serve

Melt the butter in a heavy-based pan on a medium heat, add the leeks, garlic, celery and a pinch of salt, and saute gently, stirring, for eight to 10 minutes, until soft and sweet. Stir in the pearl barley, toast for a minute, then add the cider, bring to a boil and cook until reduced by half. Pour in the stock, bring to a simmer and leave to cook gently, stirring occasionally, for 30-35 minutes, until the barley is tender.

Lay the haddock on top of the barley, cover the pan with a lid and leave the fish to poach gently in the steam for six to eight minutes, until it flakes easily. Lift out the fish, flake into large chunks, then fold these through the barley with the cream, mustard and chopped dill. Season generously, taste and adjust as needed.

Ladle into warmed bowls, drizzle with a little dill oil, if using, and serve with lemon wedges for a touch of brightness.

Black Bomber rarebit with onion marmalade

Luke Selby’s Black Bomber rarebit with onion marmalade.

There are few more satisfying hot snacks or light lunches than Welsh rarebit, so it pays to give the classic some proper attention.

Prep **10 min **Cook 45 min Serves 4

1 tbsp butter 1 large onion, peeled and finely sliced Sea salt and pepper 1 tsp brown sugar 1 tsp cider vinegar 1 tsp Worcestershire sauce 1 tsp English mustard 100ml dark ale – I use Magic Dragon’s Border bitter 200g ****Snowdonia Black Bomber cheddar, or other mature cheddar, grated **1 egg yolk 4 thick slices strong ale bread **(about 250g), or sourdough

First make the onion marmalade. Melt the butter in a small pan over a low heat, then add the sliced onion and a pinch of salt, and cook slowly, stirring occasionally, for 25-30 minutes, until soft and golden. Stir in the sugar and vinegar, cook for another five minutes, until sticky, then take off the heat.

While the marmalade is cooking, make the rarebit mixture. Put the Worcestershire sauce, mustard, ale and a pinch of pepper in a small pan, warm gently, stirring to combine, then gradually whisk in the cheese until it’s melted and the sauce is smooth. Take off the heat, stir in the egg yolk until well combined, then leave to cool slightly – as it cools, the rarebit mixture should thicken to a spreadable paste.

Toast the bread lightly on both sides under a hot grill. Spread a spoonful of the onion marmalade over one side of each slice, then top generously with the rarebit mixture. Return the bread rarebit side up to the hot grill for two or three minutes, until the rarebit is bubbling and golden, then serve immediately with an extra spoon of marmalade on the side and a pint of ale, if you fancy it.

Luke Selby is chef/partner of Palé Hall in Llandderfel, Gwynedd, north Wales