Staircase Wit

The Paris Novel by Ruth Reichl (opens in new tab)

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Ruth Reichl was the restaurant critic for the New York Times from 1993 to 1999, and although I doubt we frequented the same places, I often followed her reviews and enjoyed reading about the disguises she wore to avoid being recognized. Staff at high-end restaurants used to post pictures of her in the back, hoping not to be caught unawares. Somewhere in this house I have a copy of Tender at the Bone , the first of her five memoirs, but I have never got around to reading it. Last week, I was a...

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