Hong Kong’s dai pai dong street-food stalls go upscale. Can they recreate the same magic? (opens in new tab)

For many in Hong Kong, the term dai pai dong evokes memories of fiery woks and street-side meals shared with family and friends. These open-air food stalls are an integral part of Hong Kong’s culinary tradition, the name, dai pai dong, translating as “big licence stall” in Cantonese, in reference to the large government-issued licences vendors were required to display on their stalls back in the 1950s and 60s. Over the decades, the stalls have become synonymous with a lively, no-frills...