Why Surfing Pounds Your Body and Clears Your Mind Like Nothing Else (opens in new tab)

There's a long, meandering weather front off the beach. It's been there for days, sending cross-shore squalls across the sand, churning small sections into updrafted spirals of dust, before evaporating. The coastline is quiet. And there's a good reason for it; no-one wants to tackle the paddle-out. ...