The Golden Tooth, London N16: ‘The cheese tart alone makes this destination dining’ – restaurant review | Grace Dent on restaurants (opens in new tab)

This is what happens when a fledgling talent ages a little, and begins serving food with cool, clear, adult direction, on Green Lanes in north London, sounds as if it could be a pirate’s watering hole in Penzance, filled with wooden-legged rascal seafarers. It is, however, a pub and restaurant 10 minutes from Canonbury station, serving Hereford wing-rib with smoked bone marrow bordelaise, hogget chops with hot mint and grilled radicchio, and lardy cake with Baron Bigod and mountain tea syrup....