Time-travelling in Cantabria: from the stone age to Sartre via the ‘prettiest town in Spain’ (opens in new tab)

On the north coast of Spain you can see some of the world’s oldest art, explore a stunning medieval village, then watch surfers ride Atlantic swellsExploring the area west of Santander feels like being in a time machine. Within a half-hour drive of the Cantabrian capital on Spain’s green northern coast, you can stumble upon prehistoric cave art, a perfectly preserved medieval town and a laid-back beach resort.When I began my weekend trip, it was raining, so my journey started in the Upper Pal...