From churches and castles to wonderfully weird Portmeirion: exploring Wales’s north-west coast on foot and by train (opens in new tab)

The Cambrian Line hugs the shore, offering easy access to the Wales Coast Path, the Cadfan Way pilgrimage route and glorious Cardigan Bay From the graveyard of St Michael’s in Ynys, Wales, the view was ravishing: the Italianate oddity of .”I rather did, but sadly my modest savings don’t stretch that far. Wales’s “armpit”, geographically speaking – which is how some people refer to that chunk of Gwynedd where estuaries perspire into Cardigan Bay before it curves round the outstretched Llŷn pen...