‘I’m hoping to meet a river goddess’: a wild journey through Britain’s mythic waterways (opens in new tab)

Follow the folklore and you will discover a landscape full of wonder and powerful women – from a fearsome Scottish warrioress to the first queen of a united EnglandIt’s just past midday and I appear to be inside a rain cloud. Soaked to the skin, my walking boots squelching through tufts of grass and black bog mud, I can hear hundreds of streams rolling off this wide mid-Wales peak, each vying to be the fastest. I’ve hiked around more than 8 miles (13km) of to the top of Mount Pumlumon Fawr (P...