We’re going on a Bosnian bear hunt … in Europe’s oldest forest (opens in new tab)

A guided walk in the primeval wildwood of Perućica, where wolves, chamois and the elusive brown bear roam‘I know this bear. He knows me. We’ve met several times.” Our guide for the day points to a damaged sign in Sutjeska national park, at the beginning of the trail that descends to the forest of Perućica in south-east Bosnia. The wooden post is covered in scratches from large claws. “Bears are the sharks of the land, because they have the keenest sense of smell on the mountain. They are high...