This is a recap-ish of the latest podcast episode. You can listen to the episode below before or after you read. That’s because I tend to expand on topics from the pod as well as straight-up write about things that we did not discuss. The choice is yours in how you want to proceed!
- Ethan’s Tie TikTok – 7:23
- Tangent – 12:14
- MJ’s Mini Life Update – 16:50
- Rainy Day(s) Wear – 22:28
- Freenote Cloth – 28:36
- Buck Mason x LA Vintage Rendezvous – 36:54
- Spencer and Photography – 44:39
- Fisherman Sandals and Cohesion – 53:27
Events at Freenote & Buck Mason
Marco is one of the coolest guys of all time!
I’ll start the blog post with a bit of menswear, since that is indeed what this blog seems to be about. But in all honesty, I’m actually glad that there were some real…
This is a recap-ish of the latest podcast episode. You can listen to the episode below before or after you read. That’s because I tend to expand on topics from the pod as well as straight-up write about things that we did not discuss. The choice is yours in how you want to proceed!
- Ethan’s Tie TikTok – 7:23
- Tangent – 12:14
- MJ’s Mini Life Update – 16:50
- Rainy Day(s) Wear – 22:28
- Freenote Cloth – 28:36
- Buck Mason x LA Vintage Rendezvous – 36:54
- Spencer and Photography – 44:39
- Fisherman Sandals and Cohesion – 53:27
Events at Freenote & Buck Mason
Marco is one of the coolest guys of all time!
I’ll start the blog post with a bit of menswear, since that is indeed what this blog seems to be about. But in all honesty, I’m actually glad that there were some real Menswear (with a capital M) shenanigans to recap. The blog can’t just be about me hanging out with my thoughts on clothing, can it?
The first one was an evening at the Freenote Cloth shop in Highland Park, which celebrated its annual sample sale with a live band and free drinks. Despite HP being one of my frequent haunts (we were just there for Serhan’s birthday), I didn’t actually know that Freenote was there. Highland Park, for me, was always about curated vintage stores (Western Gifts used to be there) and Sunbeam (cool but expensive vintage furniture). Snake Oil Provisions was always there, but I had only stopped by once before, randomly. I guess we can now add Freenote to the list of cool menswear stores, even if it is workwear/heritage (which makes the most sense in this city). Also, take what I say with a grain of salt, because I’m still a dude who is notorious for being anti-shopping, at least with menswear (outside of replacing old suits).
Unfortunately, I wasn’t able to check out their sample sale (some people on MFA said it was good and very affordable), nor did I try on the clothes during the party (sorry). But I did think the pieces themselves were cool! The space was full of Freenote’s versions of certified Americana: various models of jeans (ranging from slim cowboy cut to full-legged, high-rise workwear styles); workshirts and westerners in various materials and weights; hearty jackets in canvas, denim, and leather; and a curation of boots from storied makers like Red Wing, Role Club, and John Lofgren. Two gentlemen I met that evening, an FN employee and a regular enthusiast (who works in production, how LA!), admitted that a large chunk of their paycheck goes right there to that store. Freenote is certainly a cool place!
I definitely had to take home leftovers.
Lord, they were so good! Crazy that this was free.
I went to the event with Marco, whom I hadn’t actually seen since mybirthday party back in July. We first met up for dinner at Highly Likely across the street, where we caught each other up over the past few months while I ate half of a deliciously large piece of chicken schnitzel and treated myself to a mocktail (I’m still taking it easy on drinking since my gout diagnosis). Marco, as always, was well dressed, though the POV was a bit different from what you’d expect from him. There was no leather or hearty denim to be found on this biking dancer! Instead, Marco had a red barn coat from Sassafras (which featured vertical, double-layered pockets), wide linen pants, Paraboot Michaels, and a merch cap. It all felt like a more designer-forward version of prep, which was cool to see on Marco. It contrasted the rugged, masculine vibes of Freenote’s store and crowd while also making sense for the inherent “indie” style of this LA neighborhood (though by now, this could be seen all over LA, NYC, or any metropolitan area).
My outfit was intentionally Freenote-friendly, though as you likely expected, it was Very Ethan. It was also one of the first “colder” days of “LA Fall”, so I decided to channel those colors as well as the attitude. A leather jacket was a must, my brown double rider in particular, both to flex to denim heads and because it just made sense for the setting. I initially thought about pairing it with jeans to be more Americana, but finally opted for the Ethan move of wearing black riding pants and boots. The rig was looking very 30s-sportswear, so I leaned into it further with a checked workshirt (my only Mister Freedom purchase) and a deco-stripe tie. It’s a “leather jacket look” that isn’t all that common!
Surrounded by cool dudes in heavy denim, engineer boots, and big cowboy hats, I’m sure that Marco and I stood out just a bit. Everyone we talked to was nice–we ran into friends like Chuy and Ivan and made some new ones as well. Marco definitely got along with them, as nearly all of the Freenote dudes ride motorcycles; they all tried to get me to commit to one.
Overall, it was a great Friday evening. It’s not every day that you get to enjoy a cold Coke and listen to great live music. Seriously, Parker Smith & The Empty Saddles were excellent. They played folk, country, blues, and bluegrass music from the 30s-60s, all with virtuoso performance; Parker himself repeatedly switched between guitar, fiddle, and banjo! I’m glad I went to Freenote, but then again, I’m not sure what else I would’ve been up to that night anyway. I have a rather boring life!

Free hotdogs? I’ll be there!
All of our Buck Mason talk from the previous blog/pod seemed to have manifested into an event. I swear that we’re not sponsored by them!
To celebrate their collaboration with LA Vintage Rendezvous, the annual vintage show that all but competes with Inspiration LA (which now happens in Tokyo every other year), the BM boys offered up a little Friday night party at their Larchmont location. I had been there once before for casual music night (one of their first store events in LA), but this would be the first *party-*party they would have (the other one was friends and family). While there wasn’t live music this time around, they had plenty of beer and a cadre of free hot dogs (from Tail O’ the Pup, who sells outside of Rendezvous), which promised a fun evening. I wasn’t going to be able to go to the show anyway (I had a wedding, which I’ll get to later), so this event was the best way I’d get to see all my pals.
The BM event was very hip and happening, par for the course for the LA-based, darling menswear brand. The store and its backyard were filled to the brim with various menswear figures (designers, shopkeepers), content creators (aka influencers and Tiktokers), vintage sellers, enthusiasts, as well as “cool LA types” who seemingly came off the street and lucked into free food and drink (can someone from BM share their sales conversions?). P43 pants, both new and old, mingled with carpenter pants, vintage Levis, cowboy boots, and the occasional leather or denim jacket (it was a mild night). It all made for an interesting mix of styles and personalities that was both intriguing and intimidating for this shy hobbyist.
A friend even remarked on the differences between the scenes in LA and NYC. We had all noticed that despite the familiar faces, the party did seem a bit fractured where as NYC seems to be one big group. Obviously, cliques and friend groups will always exist, but perhaps this is where the geography of NYC beats out LA: with the urban density, it just makes sense for the NYC menswear crowd to repeatedly run into each other and become close quite quickly. It also seems that in NYC, the circles are indeed comprised of every element of the industry: shopkeepers, content creators, enthusiasts, and designers. In LA, it still feels like those things are disparate, but again, that could be because people *don’t *see each other that often. Time will only tell if LA will get to that level, though I’m not even sure I’ll be present enough in the scene to see it happen. I just want to wear cool clothes and see my friends!
Nico and Will, quite the juxtaposition of styles.
Peter gets a “hell yeah”.
Pals!
And as you expected, all the pals were dressed to the nines. Gator and Ivan were there in their usual 50s-ish Western attire. Brenton, who is a designer at Buck, was in WWII olive and khaki; Will was also in milsurp, but dyed black, making for an intense yet relaxed attitude (much like his personality). There was indeed some tailoring, which made me happy: Josh had one of BM’s sack-inspired suits while Jose and Oliver (both Buck managers) paired a jacket with a workshirt and old jeans; the latter was quite Ethan Newton, not just due to his beard but through the use of a DB blazer and a silver western pin on his lapel.
To my surprise, I wasn’t the only dressy person there! Nico of Bengal Stripe fame rocked a tailored ensemble in all blue, consisting of a navy Ring Jacket suit, uni stripe OCBD, and a knit tie; despite being trussed up with neckwear, he let his ankles breathe by going sockless with tassel loafers. But my favorite, if we were picking them, had to be Peter, who not only had on his trademarked Palm Beach belt back DB jacket, but a colorful fair isle sweater, along with a vintage foulard and grey pleated trousers– a man after my own heart.
In fact, it was a recent IG story from Peter that inspired my outfit that evening: “It’s fair isle season!”, he exclaimed. We agreed to match the next time we saw each other, and since I thought I’d see him at the BM event, I made sure to incorporate a fair isle into my outfit. The look ended up being quite similar to what I wore to Freenote: a brown leather jacket and my riding boots. I still didn’t want to just default to a leather jacket + jeans look.
Mismatching leathers again!
However, as I considered the context of the event, I decided to be a bit more “Americana”, so I swapped the double rider for the A-2 style jacket and also went with my khaki riding pants. The whole thing felt a bit more tonal, especially due to the tan fair isle (cotton-silk, as it wasn’t that cold yet). Underneath was a chambray shirt and wool tie, which helped sell the casual-yet-dressy Americana vibes. While not as formal as Nico and Peter, it was still a bit of a bold look, but I enjoyed it– it was a look I had always wanted to do ever since I obtained my riding boots and riding pants.
I definitely had a fun night. Even though menswear events can feel a bit “to do”, it is indeed nice when you get to see your friends– sometimes you just need that External push to get people together! Free drinks and hot dogs certainly help too.
And with all the content creators around, I’m just glad no one got footage of me spilling sparkling water on myself. That’s what I get for bending over to pick up some trash…with my cap-less bottle placed in my jacket pocket.
Attending Jon’s Wedding
What an excellently dressed couple!
Of course, life isn’t always menswear events (thank God for that), but it does seem to be saturated with weddings. I must be at that age! Thankfully, I don’t mind an External Occasion guiding my attire once in a while– it can be a fun challenge!
This particular wedding ceremony was for my friend Jon, who, like Scott, some of you may know from the early days of the blog as both a guest and occasional human tripod. That last part is a joke because Jon is an extremely talented photographer! He was one of my first ever photography friends and was quite influential in how I developed my own approach. Jon also took some great shots for the pod’sfive-year anniversary.
I love this guy. Jon has been one of my close friends ever since college, largely because he’s a silly guy who embodies the spirit of true creativity…and obsessiveness. Whether it was photography, filmmaking, painting, woodwork, or tea, Jon goes Full Send and meticulously gets into the art/hobby– and gets into it well. When he was a bachelor, Jon carved his own dining table; according to his wife and his groomsmen, he’s now furnished quite a bit of his house, and gifted many friends spoons, cutting boards, and stools. He really is quite a guy, and I’m so happy that he’s found his person!
Like any creative soul, Jon has always had a good sense of style and expression, one that is as lively as his personality (being either vibrant or light and tonal), but also skews a bit professional. This is because he is often the face of his business, meeting with clients and making constant pitches; it’s no wonder that he has a soft spot for classic menswear. In fact, Jon is the proud owner of a few Ethan hand-me-downs, including a cotton caramel Fugue suit and the Navy Crispaire I got when I worked at Ascot Chang; the former was used in his engagement photos, and the latter he wore for his courtroom wedding! I feel quite proud (and silly) that my old clothes are woven into the tapestry of his love story.
And you likely expected, Jon’s wedding suit (and shirt) was made at Suit Supply with Jack. I wasn’t there for the fitting process, but everything came out really well. It was all the typical stuff: soft shoulder, wide notch, 3-roll-2 closure, and a rather full cut, high-waisted trousers, though Jon opted for one pleat rather than two. He went with a light khaki summer wool, which contrasted well with his white point collar shirt and dark brown geometric tie. It all made for a classic summer tailoring look that was perfect for his wedding’s Garden Party theme.
We’ve been friends for a while.
I like that his style has honed in and yet stayed consistent— he just loves those light colors.
His wedding outfit was peak Jon! Also, that suit looks good!
Even if it wasn’t too “garden-y”, I think my attire fit the occasion (I also just liked it and it felt very me).
I was actually a bit stumped on what to wear! “Garden Party” is quite a fun prompt that certainly invites interesting combinations and removes the need to be too “sleek” for an evening event, but the wedding aspect throws a wrench in it. That’s mainly because if this were just a party and not a wedding, I would have worn a white suit (which I obviously didn’t do). I did think about doing khaki, but was glad I didn’t, as I would’ve matched with Jon and his groomsmen (I actually forgot he had a custom suit made, I assumed he was wearing my old navy one). Green was another option, but I felt like it was just a little too bold, despite Jon telling me whatever I picked would be fine.
In the end, I split the difference between being reserved and “interesting” by going with my brown suit, done as an SB. A cream striped shirt, cream socks, and little cream abstractions helped give it a summery feel (and hint at the Garden Party theme) while the tie’s black base and my black loafers helped give it an evening flair. It’s certainly not as dandy as I could’ve been, but this is a wedding after all. I like the idea of being understated without defaulting (aka no navy or grey suits). Turning 30 really mellowed me out!
I had a great time at Jon’s wedding, though looking back, it was quite different from Scott’s. Obviously, the biggest contrast was that I wasn’t *in *the wedding party, but this was also the first time I’ve attended without a plus-one, which also overemphasized the fact that I didn’t know too many people there (there was a lot from the bride’s circle, and Jon and I also had different friends in college). I did indeed feel a bit awkward (and I wasn’t drinking), but thankfully, I ran into some friends from college, which prompted quite a bit of catching up; after all, I graduated from college a decade ago!. One of them was Johnson, who showed up in a khaki DB suit– I guess I would have also matched him if I wore my Fugue! We had talked a bit about menswear when we were in classes together, and it was fun to see that we both still enjoy wearing suits— I just happen to do it more often than most people.
By the end of it, I was indeed filled with nostalgia and contemplation, similar to when I drove back from Scott’s. With two weddings in the span of a month (of close friends, no less), it’s not hard to think about life: about where you are, where you’ve been, and what could have been different. As I caught up with Jon, Johnson, and Sarah (the green-suited officiant and one of my film-score discussion friends back at uni), it was clear that we’re not where we expected, but also that we’re right where we should be.
The funny thing is that, despite feeling anxious and out of place during college (and especially high school), these two weddings have shown me that, as I get older, I want to see these people more and not necessarily be out there making new connections every time. Obviously, life is about being open to both and balancing the two, but with the great, wholesome time I had at each wedding, I find myself missing (and being intrigued) by the people from my past that I am still in contact with.
Perhaps this is all similar to my views on clothes/menswear, where I’d rather wear the clothes I already own than try new things. And on the social scale, have Occasions that are not menswear focused..but still provide an opportunity for a fun look.
These past six months, being 30 has really been an introspective ride.
A Tie Tangent
Oh yeah, I also talk about how I made a TikTok in response to all the questions I get about why I tuck my tie into my trouser waistband. The answer is simple: modern ties are just too long! My priority is getting my tie knot nice and tight through a Four-In-Hand, so taking up tie length by repeatedly wrapping the cloth on itself is a no-go. Afficionados will also know that a tie’s shape gets wider closer to the tip, so even if you were to tie the knot “lower” (as to have the front blade be the proper length), the knot would still be large, even with the FIH method.
I also just like how slouchy a tucked tie looks, but trust— there is a practical reason behind it!
This just made me realize that I’ve never really written about this thing before, outside of this old article from 2016. The mindset still, sorta applies, but perhaps this topic is worth a revisit sometime…
Congruence & Learning That I’m Too Presumptuous (But What Else Is New)
Let’s get into a big discussion!
Lastly, I want to recount a discussion we had on the pod regarding expression, intention, and, like always, “what makes a ‘good’ outfit”— or perhaps outfits we like. As you could expect, the conversation went a bit too philosophical and certainly exposes our heavy biases toward menswear culture, but I wanted to share it here just so we can reference it later. These sorts of discussions, as random and inarticulate as they are, tend to only happen IRL or on Patreon Discord, and I thought it would be nice to include them on the pod as well as the blog!
Now it goes without saying that we tend to wear and prefer outfits that are “congruous”. I’m referring to combinations that strive to communicate some sort of holistic theme orcharacter, expressing not just formality or even attitude/vibe, but that tell a story. In most cases, our outfits’ POV is singular and pointed, such as the aforementioned recaps, when I dressed a bit 1930s trad/academic for a date to the Natural History Museum, or when I wore for raw-hemmed jeans, a chore coat, and a neck scarf when I painted in the park on my day off. I don’t think I have to explain why these were chosen; they simply made sense for such Occasions.
Now, subversion and interesting juxtaposition are certainly a part of our approach to menswear (I am not advocating for strict dress codes), but as we’ve discussed before, we prefer when the contrast comes from earnest enjoyment and lifestyle as an attempt to exude some sort of “character” that plays up (or over-emphasizes) some element of who we are. This is in contrast to outfits that involve items combined seemingly at “random”, where the intention can feel more like irony for irony’s sake or to play into social cachet (forcing trending pieces into the outfit).
Of course, this is impossible to examine without being presumptuous and even judgmental, but perhaps we’ve (or at least I) become a bit cynical, thanks to the current stage of social media. I am too chronically online not to be aware of the zeitgeist and the socially-optimized moves and metagame-approved items that comprise it. And so, on the pod, we discussed two outfits that utilized different approaches– and perhaps highlighted just how cynical (or judgemental) I am!
As popular and certainly cool as fisherman sandals are, I think they would look quite odd if Spencer had them on instead of cowboy boots.
The first was a typical vintage western/Americana outfit: a guy wearing a denim jacket (likely a Lee 101J) with jeans, and from what I remember, either a denim sawtooth or a chambray workshirt to make the indigo trifecta. It’s a cool look, one that is both classic and fits perfectly within the menswear zeitgeist; I do it myself quite a bit! But what felt “off” to me was the choice of footwear. He was wearing sockless fisherman sandals.
Now, fisherman sandals are great. I love wearing mine, both with and without socks, across a variety of casual outfits ranging from shorts and an open shirt to a full suit. It’s a good casual shoe that evokes the feeling of being dressy (due to the shape and leather strap) while keeping things slouchy and leisurely. It’s no surprise that they’ve “come back” and found their way back into the limelight as men’s fashion embraces and “discovers” elements of classic/vintage menswear. But here’s the thing: fisherman sandals are more than just a casual shoe. Being sandals**,** there’s a particularly beachy vibe that comes with them, but one that is also a bit **bohemian **as well as dainty (when compared to other sandals like a chunky Birkenstock Arizona).
It is because of these inherent qualities of fisherman sandals that I found their use a bit odd when paired with the decidedly western/workwear/Canadian tuxedo outfit. The hearty denim on denim on denim combo is a casual one, but in a pointed way that comes across “hard” and rugged. A sandal (especially worn sockless) doesn’t exactly make sense with that outfit; they’re much too demure and exposed when compared to hardwearing selvage denim. Narratively, what’s happening: is this a resort guest who kept his sandals but decided to be a cowboy, or is this a cowboy who decided to let his dogs hang out? Help make it make sense!
Suits and fisherman sandals don’t seem to go well on paper, but I think its good when everything follows the same casual vibe: dressy-yet-slouchy. Nothing here is “rough” or trussed up.
It’s even fine with a tie (with socks)! I find that the dainty sandals work with the leisurely and tonal outfit, making the sandals feel more like an interesting dress shoe (like a Mary Jane) rather than beachy footwear.
To be clear, I do think that fisherman sandals can go with a pair of slouchy jeans, but the rest of the outfit should also follow the outfit’s attitude. A blousy OCBD or rayon shirt (worn open) or even a tee would be fine; for a light fall day, I think a layered sweater would be cool too! You guys know that I’m into wearing fisherman sandals with a suit– it’s just always decidedly casual. If there’s a tie involved, it’s a casual one; I’m also wearing socks because I think it’s weird to be trussed up to the neck while being open in the ankle/foot.
I am not saying that the person should have simply worn cowboy boots (straightforward), a sneaker (a bit 70s), or a loafer (decidedly #menswear and subversive, but not as much as sandals). But there is something there about the outfit being a bit incongruous in its POV, even though each piece is again a part of the menswear canon. I am all for Forced Versatility, where you wear something incongruous and make it work, simply because you ike it, but I guess I prefer ones that feel a bit more thematic. Hiking boots with a sportcoat comes to mind, but especially when the other items are also rugged (chunky knit wear, fatigue pants, workshirts)— in this case, perhaps the Forced item is the sportcoat rather than the boots.
In any case, this is where my cynicism comes in. With the fisherman sandals and an entire denim ensemble, it feels as if the outfit was predicated on wearing certified menswear zeitgeist pieces rather than with a theme in mind. But of course, this is all just being presumptuous.
The next part involves a fit using two-tone loafers. The shoes aren’t the issue, but it is interesting to think about their inclusion. I like ALD’s interpretation, going for more of a casual, perhaps slightly sleazy attitude with their 1950s/60s redux.
In this outfit, the two-tone loafers might contrast with the other casual pieces, but I like that the entire outfit is decidedly sporty (while being a teensy bit elevated). In other words, the shoes are a bit “odd” but it makes sense. However, if there was a western top with those shorts and the spectator loafers, it would be for a hodgepodge of vibes...
I was fully confronted with my stubborn mindset with the next example, when I saw a menswear TikToker wear a similarly “incongruous” outfit. Up top, the guy had a cowichan sweater, a workshirt (again, either denim or chambray), and a bandana– all things that are again, quite western. The shoes were a bit subversive, being two-tone penny loafers that are indeed rockabilly/1950s, though I also recognize that they’re just a trending/zeitgeist piece of footwear. And then there was the boldest part of the outfit: a baggy pair of light-wash jorts featuring star embroidery. Certainly cool (even if I wouldn’t own it myself), but a piece that made the outfit even more intricate, albeit a bit more confusing in what the vibe was trying to be.
Each piece is indeed quite distinct with its details/expressive attitude as well as its historical root. I can appreciate them individually, but together, I find it a bit hard to express a cohesive “character”. And like with the previous example, I was far too chronically online not to notice that each garment is having a moment in the algorithm limelight and can be seen in fit pics across the internet. Again, it’s tempting for me to be cynical and think of this “character” being defined simply as someone who wears what’s trending. It can feel like they’re just playing the metagame and maxing their “cool points” by wearing certified popular pieces. But boy, is that a leap– and I felt bad for thinking it!
The more I discussed it with the guys, as well as in my Discord and IRL friends, the more I realized that this is indeed a valid “character”. In fact, this incongruous mixing of various eras of vintage (40s, 70s, 90s) and historical roots (western wear, rockabilly, 90s skate) could be seen as a facet of current culture. We can see similar approaches in people’s music taste as well as interior design: everything is a mix of niche and popular, quirky and conventional, all in the pursuit of authenticity. This reminded me of a Tiktok, where a creator said that if you can put your style under a specific aesthetic or core, your style may not be that interesting. It is indeed a bit of a different message, but that theme of avoiding being “put in a box” by encouraging incongruity (or to keep people guessing) can certainly be felt.
As I further introspected on this topic, I’ve begun to look at this “incongruous” approach positively, largely as an indicator that we are leaving our obsession with “-cores”. Instead of leaning hard into a holistic look like Old Money, Dark Academia, or Blokette, you can take what you like from each and wear it together, all at once. It’s Forced Versatility applied not just to one subversive item, but to everything. And that’s something to celebrate or at least be intrigued by.
Granted, this does lean more into an artful approach to dressing, one that likely falls outside of the bounds of an absurd menswear blog that attempts to dabble into surface-level semiotics. We are also quite biased, as the guys and I tend to find comfort in singular POVs (westernwear, 40s casual, Apparel Arts). It just comes naturally to us, as we like to recognize patterns and leverage coded-meanings to express who we are, so that people understand us (as best as possible) when they see us, be it IRL or on the internet. It wouldn’t be a surprise that someone who dresses like a professor may collect jazz or religiously log movies; a guy in workwear/milsurp listens to folk music and reads pulp magazines. Of course, there is still mystery and intrigue, but one that comes out when you talk to us (our love of Ren Faire and Anime Expo), though if you follow us on social media, that’s already out there.
I’m certainly not one to talk. This outfit combines quite a bit of vibes. There is a tailored attitude here with a Western nod, but the beret provides a Bohemian touch. I like this outfit and it’s certainly an example of me doing a hodgepodge.
*Of course, sometimes subversion just gets diluted. In the distant past, wearing western attire (especially worn jeans), a cap, and an ivy-approved sack blazer would be a no-no and quite subversive, but now, this is just regular attire. *
*And on the subject of contrast, I do like looks like this (a slipper with hearty items), even if I don’t often do it myself. Maybe my bias is just more straightforward classic menswear. Though you could argue this character is a modern cowboy who is relaxing at home with slippers instead of his tall cowboy boots. *
Nowadays, I’ve also noticed that I simply like to do things straightforward with little “contrast”, such as dressing like a painter (or what that character seems like in my head) to…well, paint.
Or dressing in a 30s-trad look to visit the Natural History Museum, taking inspiration from its adjacency to USC, the old architecture, and the general attitude of what an academic might have looked like in the past (though of course, academics can dress like anything!). But perhaps this is too much like a costume, and having more contrast would “save” it from being so?
To be clear, I have no issues with contrast in outfits. In fact, I love doing it as many of my outfits leverage juxtaposition, balancing elements of milsurp, Americana, and sportswear with classic tailoring. Of course, it is predicated on storytelling or having an “attitude prompt”, all to make things look like they were meant to be that way and not simply combined for “no reason*”*. Think a suit with cowboy boots (as if the cowboy went into the city) or a workshirt and wool tie with a blazer (in the spirit of what Apparel Arts would call “semi-sports”). Congruence is still the word.
However, I do realize that in the modern age, the “code” behind these “subversive” combinations is now lost, now being umbrellaed under the moniker of “suit and tie”. Today, people likely put my outfits under business or officewear, when in the past (or in a conservative industry), these combos would **not **fly, simply because they don’t communicate a “professional look”.
I also can’t deny that fact that our attire (well, mine) is inherently a bit bolder than most, due to the formality connotations (not many people wear a tie) as well as our predilection for going Full Send (doing a suit and tie the vintage/trad way), especially when there is no Occasion to be dressed in such a way. In other words, I can see why our singular-POV approach can come across as narrow and like the “-cores” that people rally against. It is costume-y, and as I said before, the appeal of a “hodgepodge” approach is that it is decidedly not a costume.
There’s also the semiotic element that the hodgepodge itself is a public indicator of taste and personality. So much of what’s in the zeitgeist is predicated on niche and unique designs and brands (more so now than before) – it can be fun to play into IYKYK and be a bit of an individual. What’s funny is that this hodgepodge may indeed become the “look” of the 2020s that will be inscribed in future history books.
That’s why I think it’s dubious when we consider how the hodgepodge is made up of trending items. Granted, authenticity doesn’t always mean individuality or being an original; it just means that you like it. And whether it’s clothes, music, or food, I do believe that it’s perfectly fine to enjoy popular things– there’s a chance that you even got to try it because of its popularity.
I’m reminded of a [paraphrased] point that JTR in our Discord makes often: personal taste is best done when it’s a mix of both high and low things; for this post, I’ll expand this to also include popular and unpopular things. Wearing/enjoying things that are not zeitgeist-approved makes things a little more interesting, going away from social optimization and being a bit more personal.
As I’ve said before, this isn’t an indication to simply seek out unpopular things to be different (that’s irony) but to simply stick with what you like regardless of their social standing. I understand that I have a bit of a victim complex (and obvious social anxiety) due to my predilection for inherently bold and anchronistic (read: costume-y) menswear, but I do wish that people enjoyed things for their own sake rather than their zeitgeist status. [I’ve made that point a lot over the years, so I’ll stop here].
*Riding Boots: a great example of something that is decidedly **not *in, but I love them anyway.
What’s clear is that we won’t really know that until enough time has passed for us to look back and see what people have actually stuck with. The current iteration of menswear/men’s fashion is still quite young. And despite the cannibalization of the past and how the things that I, and many others, have enjoyed for years are now thrust into the limelight/algorithm, there are a lot of people who haven’t been exposed to those moves. As I wrote about in the Trend essay, people need to see old ideas in a friendly, modern context (as opposed to only old photos and illustrations) to get on board. As always, I hope that once they are exposed to these ideas, people stick with what they acquire and do not discard them once the moment has passed.
I’ve also said many times before that we should always strive to enjoy things because of their design/inherent merit, which certainly can mean that you can like them *apart *from their root core. It stands to reason that following our enjoyment may lead to creating incongruous looks, simply because we wanted to wear that item. Again, **Forced Versatility **is in play!
I’m trying to be more open-minded about incongruity. I may still prefer storytelling through clothing (like Jenna Maroney or any theater kid who refuses to grow up, I, too, live life theatrically), but I have to realize that not everyone wants to be distilled into easily packaged ideas (I do). There is something earnest about the hodgepodge. As I think about it more, it’s just another attitude that is excited about clothing, one that simply says, “I like these clothes”. And I think that’s something to celebrate!
After all, I am a complete bozo who enjoys wearing riding boots when he doesn’t ride motorcycles or horses. However, when I wear them, I do try to keep the look “cohesive” and not simply wear them with, say, a Star Wars tee shirt or an aloha. Though again, perhaps that would save them from their costume-y attitude, and maybe others will like them more….
Maybe contrast and juxtaposition are indeed the only way to “save” menswear?
*– end of blog post – *
I really loved Marco’s barn coat. The pockets, man!
He was the best steel guitar player I’ve ever seen.
Hell yeah, dude!
A color photo of Christian because that jacket went crazy! Love its use over a denim kimono-style jacket.
Outdressed by The Bengal Stripe himself!
Fair Isle season is here!
Dawg it up.

Arthur, seen here in a paisley tie, was also at the Freenote event! Here’s to new menswear pals.
Ivan and Christian.
Brenton waiting to pee.
Joshua Gooch!
Jose and Oliver both repping the tailored gang.
Calvin, another new menswear pal.
Mr. JJ getting some kisses.
I’m not a wedding photographer but I can’t help but take photos at weddings.
It helps when the bride and groom are just too gosh darn adorable.
Other couples got some photos too!
We’ve loved DBs since college!
My date for the evening: multiple rounds of free milk tea.
Hadn’t been here in a while!
Had to do this one in color because it just came out so well!
Meow!
Meow!
The Natural History Museum had aspider pavilion, and I was anxious the entire time. I hate spiders. My date was quite comfortable.
Anyway, maybe I just like being “congruent” and looking like a costume whenever I’m out. I am quite pretentious and performative after all.
Oh yeah, here’s the final result of that painting! First one I’ve done in a long time. Even after that old blog post, I’m still doing it.
I think what is most congruous for me is that I will always look like an obnoxious asshole. But at least the outfit makes sense!
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Buh-bye!
Ethan M. Wong* (follow me on IG)**| ***StyleandDirection
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