Grandpa rizz
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Many years ago, in a small coastal town in Italy, an old man taught me how to choose the best figs. Elegantly dressed in a pressed shirt and crisp trousers, he croaked through his artificial larynx, like a vocoder transmitting a language I could barely understand. Lovingly turning the various fruits in his wrinkled hands, he tapped them gingerly here and there and lifted the stems on their domes to illustrate his point. His need to pass this knowledge on to me on a lazy summer afternoon was so urgent and sincere that I still remember him vividly.

That simple, tender, yet utterly mundane moment made me think of all the old men I’d never had the chance to meet. In Russia, where I grew up, [men rarely made it to that age](https://data.worldbank.org/indicator/SP.DYN.LE00.MA.IN?locations=…

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