After the Crusades gave it the opportunity to start creating trading posts in the Eastern Mediterranean, the maritime republic of Genoa began to expand its influence rapidly. In fact, the town became officially the self-governing commune “Republic of Genoa” in 1099, in the immediate aftermath of the First Crusade.

Its prominence in maritime trade earned it many nicknames: la Superba (“the Superb One”; the name given to it by Petrarch), la* Dominante* (“The Dominant One”), la Dominante dei mari (“the Dominant of the Seas”), and la Repubblica dei magnifici (“the Republic of the Magnificents”).

What trade items made Genoa so powerful. Wine and olive oil went all over the Mediterranean. Because of their involvement in the Black Sea, they had access to some of the great grain producers of Europe. Spices and silks came from the countries to the east. Silk thread was imported and woven into cloth in Genoa, then exported.

They also made their own type of cloth. The Genoese navy and ship builders needed sturdy material that could be worn wet or dry. In response to this need, Genoa produced a fustian cloth referred to as being of “medium quality and of reasonable cost.” “Fustian” was a Latin word (fustaneum) for this type of heavy cotton cloth; originally with a linen warp (the vertical threads held together in the loom) and a cotton weft (the threads passed back and forth by the shuttle). “Fustian” can be applied to corduroy, velvet, or moleskin.

The Genoese navy used this material for trousers because it was durable and wore well even when wet, unlike wool. This “jeans” material was also exported, and it is suspected that the name “jeans” comes from Gênes, the French word for Genoa.

Genoa also exported salt, salami, prosciutto, and cheeses. There were, however, other maritime republics that dealt in the same goods. One of these other republics, Venice, became such a rival that the two republics went to war. We’ll start talking about that tomorrow.