Traffic comes to a standstill near Amber Palace in the city that shares its name, seven miles from Jaipur in the northern Indian state of Rajasthan, when a chorus of horns announces the arrival of a formation of elephants. They make their way through the tuk-tuks, covered in bridles and brightly colored paint on their trunks and eyes. At this hour, the sun is beating down and the animals are returning to their sanctuaries after a long day’s work. Each one carries its mahout on its back, the keeper who has accompanied it since its younger years.

For centuries, the elephant has been a sacred symbol in India, home to the world’s largest population of Asian pachyderms in the world at around 27,000, spread throughout the country. In southern regions like Kerala, it is still possible to find wild herds in the forests, while in areas to the north, such as Rajasthan, elephants only remain in captivity, in protected sanctuaries that provide refuge for animals that have been injured or rescued from poachers. Although sanctuaries were initially conceived to protect the species and promote local traditions and culture, over time they have become the hub of a thriving but controversial tourism industry. At Amber Palace alone, some 125 elephants transport hundreds of visitors to the top of the complex every day. Across the country, there are an estimated 2,700 to 3,500 elephants in captivity, with more than 75% involved in tourism activities.

According to the government of Rajasthan’s 2024-2025 economic report, tourism accounts for around 15% of the state’s GDP. Demand has driven the proliferation of centers offering rides, body painting sessions, and animal feeding. But that growth has come at a cost.

“Defining elephants as ‘domesticated’ is misleading: it simplifies their situation and distorts their biological reality,” warns the World Animal Protection (WAP) report Elephants. Not Commodities. Although they live in contact with humans, they retain the behaviors and instincts of wild species. “Talking about domestication hides a very different process: training to ensure the animal’s obedience,” the organization points out.

Lack of regulation

In Rajasthan, elephants live only in captivity, housed in sanctuaries created for the rescue of injured or poached animals. But not all meet the same standards. According to Geeta Seshamani, co-founder and secretary of Wildlife SOS. Some are truly committed to providing natural spaces and decent conditions, while others function as tourist attractions. “Many facilities lack the space and tools necessary to encourage the exploratory and social behavior typical of elephants,” which leads to “joint disorders due to both immobility and excessive exertion imposed in captivity,” the activist continues. She adds, “Without adequate regulation, and with demand constantly growing, it will become increasingly difficult to distinguish truly ethical centers from those that operate based on market logic.”

Several academic studies and field observations show that some elephants live in appalling conditions: they suffer from sleep and nutritional imbalances, isolation, and discomfort due to the continuous use of sticks and rigid saddles (howdahs). These factors jeopardize the physical and, in many cases, psychological well-being of the elephants. In many cases, elephants in captivity continue to exhibit stereotypical behaviors—such as compulsive rocking or repetitive movements—which are clear symptoms of stress and frustration.

A clear example is Malti, an elephant who worked for years at Castle Amber and who was transferred to a sanctuary after a long campaign by PETA India, an organization dedicated to protecting the area’s elephants. “A group of 120 veterinarians signed a document that confirmed that the elephant was suffering psychologically. It was necessary to rehabilitate her and transfer her to a specialized care center,” remembers Khushboo Gupta, PETA India’s director of advocacy projects. The organization denounced the abuse that Malti had suffered in captivity and the lack of protective regulations.

Other elephants have shown signs of suffering that sometimes result in aggressive reactions: in 2024, an elephant named Gouri was filmed attacking a tourist, which revived a debate on the limits of forced contact between humans and animals. “Elephants have attacked humans and other elephants out of pure frustration that stems from being ridden,” explains Gupta.

The connection with the ‘mahout’

Another factor to consider in the protection of elephants is their relationship with their mahouts. Although tradition holds that this is a symbiotic or spiritual bond, it is based on training that often employs invasive practices that have been passed down from generation to generation and respond to an economic need: for many mahouts, caring for elephants is often their only source of income.

“Some 15,000 people depend on the 65 elephants in the village,” explains Ballu Khan, chairman of the Elephant Village Development Committee in Jaipur. “To make matters worse, the rate for rides has been reduced by about 1,500 rupees [around $15], but the owner only receives 1,200. This is a serious problem for the mahouts, who, despite everything, continue to care for their elephants.”

Kumar, a young mahout who works at a sanctuary near Jaipur, describes the daily routine of Padma, a 35-year-old elephant: “Every day she consumes about 260 kilos of food: 200 kilos of sugarcane, 20 kilos of sorghum, 15 kilos of green fodder, 10 kilos of watermelon, 10 kilos of bananas, and 5 kilos of wheat rotis at night.” The daily cost of feeding her exceeds 4,000 rupees. “Balancing that expense with family needs and such limited income is becoming increasingly difficult. My family has been doing this for generations, but it had never been so hard to support ourselves,” he laments. “In recent years, more sanctuaries have sprung up here in southern Rajasthan, and in my opinion, that increase, not only in demand but also in supply, has put our work in crisis.”

The legislative framework also influences the status of elephants. In 2021, a committee of experts declared 10 elephants in Jaipur unfit to be ridden and the state government ordered their removal. “We applaud the measures taken by the government to stop the use of some older or sick animals,” says Gupta.

However, the most recent reforms have raised concerns. Amendments to the Wildlife Protection Act of 2022 and the entry into force in 2024 of the Rules for the Transfer of Captive Elephants have expanded the circumstances under which elephants can be kept in captivity, including for religious and cultural purposes. According to PETA India, these changes facilitate transfers between states and blur the line between conservation and exploitation.

“Elephants are the only wild animals that private individuals can own. Although the law prohibits their sale, they continue to be transferred commercially under the guise of gifts or donations,” says Gupta. “In the name of tourism, we are turning a national symbol into an attraction. At what cost?” she asks.

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