When Ssense filed for bankruptcy protection on August 29, the news rippled through the fashion and retail landscape. And while true industry insiders (and former Ssense staffers) may not have been surprised by the headlines, fashion fans—and the brand’s loyal online shoppers—certainly were. The e-comm giant, founded in Montreal in 2003 by brothers Rami, Firas and Bassel Atallah, isn’t just another online store. It’s our Canadian cool-kid success story, and our connection to a global industry that rarely associates the term “fashion capital” with Canada.

When I posted a video on TikTok offering my two cents (or “sense”, if you will), I didn’t expect the rich conversation that would unfold in the comments. As a stylist, fashion writer and content creator, I have years of fashion industry experience, plenty of strong opinions and a closet full of fashion treasures. When I offered my take on the state of Canadian retail, I must have said out loud what everyone was thinking. My first no-frills video, shot with below-average lighting and no script, amassed 37,000 views and dozens of comments. So, the algorithm did its thing.

The Ssense news cracked open a truth most Canadians already knew: shopping here is broken. We’re starved for options, dinged with duties, conditioned to wait for markdowns and suspicious of luxury pricing. Ssense’s stumble simply brought all those existing grievances to the surface.

The general sentiment in the comments was one of dissatisfaction with Canada’s online (and IRL) shopping options, which could be made worse by the potential disappearance of our very own shopping behemoth. Others flagged inflated luxury pricing, the costly duties we pay for access to international brands and a limited selection of merchandise that can often feel uninspired (informed, no doubt, by the age-old assumption that when it comes to style, Canadians are conservative and predictable. To which I say: Have you walked down Ossington lately?).

What emerged wasn’t just frustration, but a desire for a better Canadian shopping experience.

Compared to other locales, Canada’s retail scene feels sparse. Sure, we have a mix of mall brands and gorgeous high-end flagships, but that leaves a bit of a missing middle. Surely we deserve better than this sea of Aritzia sameness. The chorus of comments agreed that a variety of mid-tier boutiques would be a welcome addition to the scene. The wish list included international heavy-hitters like Tibi, The Frankie Shop and Sézane.

There’s also been a noticeable, global uptick in the influence of independent brands and boutiques. These curated shops bring flavour to our cityscapes and texture to our wardrobes. As the big players falter, (Ssense isn’t alone; U.K.-based luxury e-comm company MatchesFashion closed down in March 2024) smaller retail feels on the cusp of a renaissance, with room for new concepts and fresh aesthetics to reignite the lost pleasure of in-person shopping.

While online shopping skyrocketed during the pandemic, we lost that sense of serendipity. Remember the thrill of discovery you used to find in a boutique, whether it’s experiencing a shop owner’s edit in a multi-brand space (Sincerely Tommy) or stepping into the fully realized world of a label’s flagship (Jenny Kayne)? Personal service, a clear point of view and the chance to feel the craftsmanship of a new brand are all part of magic.

The Ssense news cracked open a truth most Canadians already knew: shopping here is broken.

For proof, look to Merci in Paris or Herschleifers in Manhasset, New York—both independent boutiques that have turned into arbiters of taste. Designer and Dior’s new creative director Jonathan Anderson recently opened his own brick-and-mortar store in London to connect directly with customers. He is also relaunching his namesake line, JW Anderson, as a lifestyle brand offering everything from clothes to linen tea towels. Closer to home, we have our own gems too: the beautifully curated River Crossing in Toronto’s Queen West and Vancouver favourite Boboli. While Ssense grew bigger and bigger in an attempt to be everything to everyone, these smaller players are content to cater to a loyal local customer base and the occasional savvy visitor.

Second-hand shopping, too, is stepping up to the moment. With sticker shock on Canadian-priced merchandise making full-price luxury sometimes feel out of reach, resale has become our stylish workaround. Designer consignment and pre-loved luxury are booming, offering the cachet of brand names at palatable price points, often in pristine, barely-worn condition. eBay lists pre-owned Louis Vuitton and Gucci among its most-wanted items, while Canadian consignment players Mine & Yours and Boketto have expanded with second Toronto locations, feeding an appetite for curated, elevated resale.

Consequences of Sale Culture

At the time of writing this, Ssense has since been granted creditor protection. That means that they can independently restructure their business, pay off their debts and plan for their next act. How they will do so remains to be seen, but shoppers are eagerly watching the site for further markdowns from their favourite brands.

Speaking of markdowns, sale culture on a whole has firmly become part of the shopping landscape. The legendary Ssense Sale was not just a discount period, it became its own type of fashion-speak. This predictable price-slashing cycle trained us, the consumers, to wait for markdowns and never pay full price for luxury goods, eroding the system and devaluing products, while leaving independent brands struggling to offer the same kind of steep sales—all while shoppers started questioning whether the prices were inflated from the start.

Plus, the cost of luxury goods went from save-up-worthy to aspirational to lost-the-plot status. I love a designer splurge as much as the next person, but I draw the line at paying $720 for an Acne Studios hoodie (which, if I bide my time, can still be mine for 30 to 50 percent off).

Tech Has Entered the Chat

Savvy shoppers are also using new technology to their advantage. The Kris Jenner and Hailey Bieber-backed app Phia makes it easy for their 500,000 users to price compare across 40,000 retailers, including The Real Real, Poshmark and, yes, Ssense to get the best deal, leveraging the ease of AI to alter the way we shop even more.

Adding insult to injury are the brutal duties Canadian shoppers face when buying from global brands. I have plenty of horror stories about The Real Real and Japanese eBay, where shipping and duties often surpass the price of the product itself. Historically, Canada has had a very low de minimis (tax exemption on imported goods) making it expensive to access international labels. Ssense filled the gap by providing access to a great selection of international brands without the secondary shock of duties on delivery.

Where Does This Leave Us?

Fashion is always reinventing itself. Perhaps a retooled Ssense 2.0, mixed with flourishing local boutiques and a thriving second-hand scene can all combine to feed shoppers’ appetite for discovery. The continued success of other homegrown, multi-brand stalwarts Holt Renfrew and Simons’s can help take the sting off the recent demise of Hudson’s Bay, and the uncertainty of Ssense’s future.

Ssense 2.0 has the opportunity to be a leaner platform, with the tight curation it was known for when it paved the way for independent designers and avant-garde leaning brands. And while I’m all for a bold reinvention, my hope is for consumers to have a slower, more intentional relationship with shopping, paired with a braver selection of brands on our shelves. One thing is certain: the comments will keep coming. And I, for one, will be scrolling.