The classic döner is almost a cultural asset in Germany, but in the south-western city of Karlsruhe, it’s not meat revolving on the skewer, but a sea creature.

Right in the city centre, the Romanian chain Pescobar is now serving the octopus döner complete with visible tentacles and suckers, compressed into the shape of a döner skewer.

Founder Paul Nicolau describes his creation as “fresher, healthier, and yet not completely unfamiliar.” He has already established the concept in London – now he is testing the German market.

Like a traditional döner, his cephalopod creation is marinated and roasted on the skewer, then sliced off and seasoned on a grill plate.

Simply add salad, radishes, cucumbers and aioli in flatbread and it’s ready: It’s not so different in appearance from a traditional döner, but the taste is more reminiscent of the Mediterranean than the Bosporus.

Criticism from animal rights activists

While the queue at the central Karlsruhe branch was long in the days following the premiere, opinions are divided online. Some rave about the seafood taste, while others point to the intelligence of octopuses – or the hefty price of €14 ($16.20).

According to Nicolau, between 300 and 400 of the special döners are sold per branch per day. He says he imports the sea creatures from Mauritania, Morocco and Senegal.

In his London branches and also in Karlsruhe, his team also sells wraps and hotdogs – with tentacles instead of sausages.

But why an octopus döner of all things? “It’s a fast food that is known and loved in Germany. So, the temptation to try it is not so foreign,” said Nicolau.

Ironically, his first German branch is right next to a popular kebab shop in Karlsruhe.