I grew up in Elmhurst, Queens, not far from Jackson Heights. It was a very mixed neighborhood, but it did have a lot of South Asian kids. In the ’70s, I remember always going to Jackson Heights on Saturday to the temple, to go grocery shopping for all our Indian groceries, and to bring home samosas. When I was older, my mother and I moved back and forth between Queens and Manhattan; my mother shopped at Kalustyan’s because that was the only place that sold Indian groceries in Manhattan.

Those days, I was still very much a pure vegetarian and I didn’t eat a lot of things. If we did go out to eat anything other than Indian food, it would always have to have some rice. Even if there was nothing else, at least I could get rice with some soy sauce and Tabasco or something. As a teen I m…

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