An inspired Chinese spin on Italian tiramisu.

Consider this the king of tiramisus.

Not only is it the creation of San Francisco Chef Melissa King. But it cemented her victory on “Top Chef: All-Stars” when one taste immediately brought tears to the eyes of legendary Italian butcher Dario Cecchini, who knows a thing or two about fine tiramisu.

As you can probably glean, her genius move was to give an Asian spin to this classic Italian dessert by swapping out the traditional espresso for Hong Kong milk tea instead.

This recipe for that winning “Hong Kong Milk Tea Tiramisu” is from her debut cookbook, “Cook Like A King” (Ten Speed Press), of which I received a review copy.

Growing up in Los Angeles’ San Gabriel Valley and in San Francisco, she started cooking with her mom as a kid. After college, she enrolled at the Culinary Institute of America. She ended up working under such lauded Bay Area chefs as Dominique Crenn and Ron Siegel.

In 2014, she was a finalist in “Top Chef” (Season 12) before going on to win “Top Chef: All-Stars” in 2020. I often think she didn’t receive the fanfare she deserved as the first Asian American female chef to triumph on “Top Chef,” largely because the worldwide pandemic erupted shortly afterward that rightly consumed everyone’s attention.

I’m glad to see that this cookbook — filled with such enticing, creative and fun creations — is allowing her to finally receive her flowers.

Turn the pages, and you’ll start craving everything from “Miso Baba Ghanoush,” “Coconut Shrimp Toast,” and “Classic Wedge with Shiso Ranch,” “Al Pastro Bao,” and “Char Siu Black Cod.”

Hong Kong milk tea powder.

Of course, the tiramisu recipe was the one I just had to make. It is ideal for entertaining because it serves at least 12, plus you can make it ahead of time.

Of course, you’ll need milk tea powder. It’s typically a blend of black tea, sugar, and milk powder to which you just stir into a cup of hot water to make your own Hong Kong-style, creamy milk tea to sip. But here, it will flavor both a rich custard and the liquid the ladyfingers get dunked into. King recommends the brand Dai Pai Dong 2-in-1, which is what I used. Look for it in Asian markets or on Amazon.

The first layer of ladyfingers in the pan. The mascarpone custard gets slathered on next, before the second layer of ladyfingers goes on top.

To say this dessert is fantastically rich and luxurious is an understatement. Not only is it completely topped with a cloud of fluffy whipped cream, but it gets layered with a luscious custard made with condensed milk, whole milk, sugar, tea powder, eight egg yolks, and a load of mascarpone.

The ladyfingers get dipped into a mixture of condensed milk, water, more tea powder, and Marsala or Madeira, before being arranged in the bottom of a 9-by-13-baking dish. Spread the mascarpone custard overtop before adding another layer of dunked ladyfingers, and finally, finishing with the big flourish of whipped cream and shavings of chocolate. The tiramisu will completely fill the pan to the brim. Refrigerate at least 24 hours before serving.

Covered in whipped cream and chocolate shavings, then chilled.

By that time, the ladyfingers will have softened even more, taking on a cake-like texture hidden within all of that extravagant cream and custard.

Layers and layers.

The milk tea offers a gentler taste than espresso, but still with a note of the recognizable tannins from the black tea. The Marsala is evident, but just in the background so that it’s not overly boozy tasting.

Leftovers can be refrigerated to enjoy the next day. Or freeze in a covered container to tuck away for longer. If you do that, try enjoying it still frozen when it will then taste very much like an ice cream cake.

Italian for “pick me up” or “cheer me up,” this creamy, dreamy tiramisu will make any occasion soar.

Such a treat!

Hong Kong Milk Tea Tiramisu

(Serves 10 to 12)

For mascarpone custard:

8 large egg yolks

1/2 cup sweetened condensed milk

1/2 cup white sugar

3 tablespoons unsweetened instant Hong Kong milk tea powder

2/3 cup whole milk

3/4 teaspoon Diamond Crystal kosher salt

24 ounces (3 3/4 cups) mascarpone, cold

For the whipped cream:

2 cups heavy cream, cold

1 1/2 teaspoons white sugar

2 vanilla beans, split lengthwise

To assemble:

2 cups boiling water

3/4 cup unsweetened instant Hong Kong milk tea powder

1/2 cup sweet or dry Marsala or Madeira

3/4 cup sweetened condensed milk

About 40 savoiardi (Italian ladyfingers)

1 bar milk chocolate, cold, for grating

Make the mascarpone custard: Find a large metal bowl that can sit in a medium saucepan filled with 1 inch of water without touching the water. In the bowl, combine the egg yolks, sweetened condensed milk, sugar, tea powder, whole milk, and salt. Whisk until well combined.

Fill a slightly larger bowl with half ice and half water. Set up a double boiler. In the saucepan, bring 1 inch of water to a gentle simmer over medium to medium-low heat, and set the bowl with the egg yolk mixture in the pan. Constantly and vigorously whisk side to side until the mixture has doubled in volume and thickened slightly, 4 to 6 minutes.

Remove the bowl from the heat and set it in the bowl of ice water. With one hand, hold a rubber spatula in the custard and against the side of the bowl; with the other, spin the bowl until the mixture is well chilled, 4 to 6 minutes. This allows you to cool the mixture quickly without losing much of the air you beat in earlier.

In a stand mixer fitted with the whisk, combine the custard and mascarpone and whisk on medium-high speed, scraping down the bowl once or twice, to medium peaks, about 3 minutes. Refrigerate the mascarpone custard.

**Make the whipped cream: **In a stand mixer fitted with the whisk, combine the heavy cream and sugar. Use a paring knife to scrape the seeds of the vanilla beans into the bowl, reserving the pods for another day. Beat on medium-high speed until soft peaks from, 2 to 3 minutes. Whisk by hand until peaks form, about 15 seconds more. Refrigerate the whipped cream.

Assemble the tiramisu: In a wide shallow bowl, stir together the boiling water and tea powder until the powder dissolves. Add the Marsala and the sweetened condensed milk and stir well.

Set a heavy 9-by-13-inch baking dish that’s at least 3-inches deep near the tea mixture. One by one, briefly submerge 16 to 20 ladyfingers in the tea mixture for 3 to 4 seconds to saturate them (any longer and they’ll fall apart) and add them to the baking dish to cover it in a single layer. Use a rubber spatula to spread the mascarpone custard evenly on top.)

One by one, briefly submerge and add enough ladyfingers to make a second layer. (Discard any leftover tea mixture.) Spread the whipped cream evenly on top. Use a Microplane to finely grate enough of the chocolate bar over the tiramisu to generously cover the surface.

Cover and refrigerate for at least 24 hours or up to 72 hours (for me, the sweet spot is 48 hours). Serve cold.

From “Cook Like A King” by Melissa King