Fonterutoli lies in the Chianti Classico region of the Tuscan hills.

Fonterutoli

** ** Castello Fonterutoli is both one of the oldest Tuscan wineries in Tuscany but alos one of the most modern, whose current three-level winery uses gravity to press down the grapes that drop 15 meters to n the vast cellar where more than 3000 oak barrels dwell, the temperature and the right degree of humidity is guaranteed by five completely natural water streams flowing through the naked rock walls. The estate covers 650 hectares, with 110 saved for special vineyards organized into seven zones ranging and divided into 114 single parcels. Their latest project is IPSUS, which I discussed while owner Giovanni Mazzei over dinner in New York last month.

Castello Fonterutoli’s current head is in the 25th generation of his family/s ownership.

Daniela Marchi photographer

Briefly describe the evolution of your family in Chianti. Were they producing Chianti before Ricasoli came up with a formula? My family has been rooted in Chianti for generations - over 25 to be precise. We have always cultivated vines here, long before the region became formally recognized. When Baron Ricasoli established his famous formula, it helped define the identity of Chianti, but for us, it was more of a natural evolution of what we were already doing rather than a revolution.

How does IPSUS differ from your other wines? What is the price in the US? IPSUS represents our most intimate expression of Sangiovese. It’s a single-vineyard wine, entirely organic, and made with a very artisanal approach. We wanted to capture the soul of our terroir in a purer, more elegant form. It’s produced in small quantities, and in the US it retails around $350 a bottle, depending on the vintage.

Most Chiantis no longer use the lesser varietals that were once sanctioned by the DOC, like canaiolo, Malvasia, trebbiano and coloring in favor of using 100% Sangiovese. Why eliminate these other grapes? Sangiovese has an extraordinary capacity to express terroir with its purity, its energy, its transparency. Over time, many producers, including us, felt that blending it diluted its character. That said, I have great respect for those traditional blends; they belong to our history. But today, our focus is on showing what Sangiovese can do on its own, when grown and vinified with care. “I like to call our Sangiovese a wine with no filter.”

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Have Tuscan wineries tried to play down the unofficial marketing term “Super Tuscan?”

As long as there remains an appetite and demand for ‘Super Tuscans’ in the market, and as long as they are recognized for their iconic qualities, they will continue to be referred to as such. The name “Super Tuscan” was never chosen by the producers themselves, but by the consumer.

IPSUS is now Fonterutoli’s signature bottling.

Fonterutoli

Less wine is being consumed globally than a generation ago, including in Italy. Has Chianti noticed a decline in consumption? Yes, there’s been a shift. People drink less, but better. Quantity has gone down; quality and awareness have gone up. For Chianti Classico, that’s actually positive: it means more appreciation for authenticity, more appreciation towards wines that can better reflect our viticulture

Is 14.5% alcohol becoming the norm for Tuscan wines? If so, why? It’s true that alcohol levels have risen slightly in recent years. Warmer vintages and later ripening play a part in that. But IPSUS has never reached 14.5%, so it’s absolutely possible to make wines with lower alcohol while keeping full expression and depth in these climate conditions. Having said that, for me, balance is what really matters. A well-made wine can have 14.5% and still feel elegant and fresh. The ultimate goal is always harmony, not numbers. That said, I sometimes think humans are more resilient to climate change than our vineyards, so we need to adapt carefully and respectfully.

Because of global warming will Tuscan wines have different intensity years from now? Absolutely. Climate change is already influencing our work. Slightly earlier harvests, more extreme weather, different ripening patterns. But we’re adapting: with improving our vineyard management, canopy management, careful selection of clones. I believe Tuscan wines will maintain their identity, but perhaps with a slightly different rhythm of intensity in the future. As a matter of fact, in the region, irrigation is not allowed, apart from in an emergency. Our family, across all our vineyards in Chianti Classico, does not irrigate our vineyards

Fonterutoli’s IPSUS is taken from the prime terroir of their Tuscan estate

Fonterutoli

Where are your major exports?

Our main markets are the United States, the UK, Germany, Switzerland, and a growing presence in Asia, especially Japan and South Korea. The US remains our most important and loyal market.

How will the Trump taxes affect you? They were certainly a concern when introduced, as they affected the entire Italian wine sector. Fortunately, many of those tariffs were suspended before causing major long-term damage. Still, they reminded us how fragile international trade can be, and how important strong relationships with our importers and clients are. I think we all need to think more sustainably and look at how to perform better in the domestic market.

You travel most weeks out of the month. How much time do you spend at the estate making and overseeing the wines? Are others in your family involved? I try to spend as much time as possible at the estate; it’s where I feel most grounded. Even when I travel, I stay closely connected to the team and the vineyards. My family is deeply involved too; it’s a shared passion and responsibility. The estate is not just a place of work, it’s our heritage, our home, our life.