Remember a time before sourdough ruled the bakery roost? A simpler time, when tiger bread was a fancy weekend loaf, or a French stick would be a solid go-to. Now, sourdough is everywhere and has even become a status symbol. Some bakeries with cult followings sell out each morning (even on weekdays) and have queues snaking out the doors. So, of course, supermarkets had to get in on the action and create their own.

Thought to date back thousands of years to ancient Egypt, sourdough isn’t new, but what defines it is hard to agree on. “‘Sourdough’ isn’t a legally protected term, so technically any bread can currently be called sourdough,” explains Swie Joo, head baker at The Palmerston restaurant in Edinburgh, which bakes all of its excellen…

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