Mike Jay: Priest of the Devil
lrb.co.uk·2w

On​ the remote island of Siberut off the west coast of Sumatra, the Mentawai have a well-documented tradition of shamans: individuals known as sikerei heal people by communing with spirits. Manvir Singh, in the middle of his doctoral research in human evolutionary biology, went there in 2014 to undertake fieldwork. Sikerei were easy to spot, with their long hair, loincloths, strings of beads and spidery tattoos, which traced patterns and broken lines up their spines, limbs and torsos and across their faces. Singh was hoping to embed himself in a traditional community and witness its ceremonies. But during the 1970s most of them had been relocated from their longhouses in the forest to government-built villages; by the 1990s guides were organising ‘tribal tours’ for foreigners and m…

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