It sounds obvious, but the key to making gluten-free, pull-apart dinner rolls that can appease everybody at Thanksgiving dinner is to create a roll that actually, you know, pulls apart.

After trying and trying, Jules Shepard figured out how to do it.

The secret ingredient? Potato flakes.

“There’s something telltale about those dinner rolls,” said Shepard, who has celiac disease and has been creating her own gluten-free flour and sharing her recipes since 1999. “There’s a chew to it, a hallmark flavor and texture to it, and you pull them and there’s a little bit of resistance. So it took a while until I was able to happen upon something that worked.”

She found that potato flakes from instant mashed potato boxes could re-create the classic, chewy texture.

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