By Gretchen McKay, Pittsburgh Post-Gazette

Many family dinners are planned ahead of time after pulling a delicious-sounding recipe out of a cookbook and making a detailed grocery list. But there are plenty of nights when this home cook just wings it based on what’s lurking in her freezer, has ripened on the counter or — more often than I’d like to admit — is about to spoil in the refrigerator crisper.

While I cook nearly every day, I’m constantly moving on to the next dish, usually with different ingredients to keep things interesting. I also can’t help myself when at the farmers market because everything looks so good and I’m always trying to make good on my eternal self-promise to eat more vegetables.

Combined, that means I almost always have too much of something or other in my fridge that I need to act fast on to avoid costing myself money.

This easy gumbo dish is a classic example. It was inspired by a leftover bunch of celery, bag of bell peppers and a package of andouille sausage I bought on impulse at my favorite Italian grocery store and forgotten I’d socked away.

Native to Louisiana, gumbo almost always starts with a roux made with equal parts fat and flour that has to slowly cook on low heat until it’s the color of peanut butter.

This easy, one-pot version skips that step to save time on a busy weeknight because the flour is sprinkled on top of the meat to thicken the broth as it simmers. But it’s still pretty flavorful, thanks to the “Holy Trinity” of Cajun and Creole cooking: diced onions, bell peppers and celery. Hot sauce and Cajun seasonings add the expected kick.

Traditionalists might yelp at the thought of a roux-less gumbo, but when you’re hungry and pressed for time, it works. Spooned over white rice, the dish is filling and tastes even better the next day when you heat it up for lunch.

Gumbo typically incorporates shrimp, but a shellfish allergy in my house necessitated leaving it out. In the past I’ve also added okra, a hot weather vegetable that helps thicken the broth into a hearty stew. (It’s easy to find, and cheap, at Indian grocery stores.)

The spice mix takes a minute to stir together and you’ll also have to do some chopping. But because this recipe doesn’t require a roux, it only takes about a half hour to cook once everything is thrown into the pan.

White rice is a traditional accompaniment, but you also could serve gumbo with crusty bread, cornbread or saltine crackers.

One-pot Roux-less Gumbo

PG tested

You can buy Creole seasoning in a can (Zatarain’s is great) but it’s super easy, and probably fresher, to make your own at home with everyday spices.

If you can find okra, add some sliced at the same time as the corn to help thicken the broth.

For Creole seasoning

5 tablespoons paprika

3 tablespoons salt

2 tablespoons onion powder

2 tablespoons garlic powder

2 tablespoons dried oregano

2 tablespoons dried basil

1 tablespoon dried thyme

1 tablespoon black pepper

1 tablespoon white pepper

1 tablespoon cayenne pepper

For gumbo

4 tablespoons unsalted butter

1 Spanish onion, chopped

2 cloves garlic, minced

1 pound chicken thighs (about 4), cut into bite-sized pieces

2 stalks celery, diced

1 green bell pepper, diced

1 yellow or red bell pepper, diced

2 tablespoons flour

1 Creole seasoning

2 cups chicken stock or broth

1 (15-ounce) can fire-roasted tomatoes

1/2 pound andouille sausage, sliced into rounds

1 tablespoon fresh thyme leaves, chopped

1 teaspoon sugar

1 cup corn kernels, fresh or frozen and thawed

8-10 okra, sliced, optional

Hot sauce, to taste

2 teaspoons Worcestershire sauce

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

2 cups cooked rice, for serving

1 bunch scallions, thinly sliced, for garnish

Prepare Creole seasoning: Place all the ingredients in a small bowl and mix together until well combined with a fork or whisk. Set aside while you prepare the gumbo.

Place butter in large stockpot and melt over medium heat. Add onion and cook until translucent, about 5 minutes. Add garlic and chicken to pot and cook for 5 minutes.

Add celery and peppers and cook for another minute. Sprinkle flour and 1 heaping tablespoon Creole seasoning over meat and vegetables and stir well. (Store leftover spices in an airtight container.)

Add stock, tomatoes, sausage, thyme, and sugar to pot and bring to a simmer. Cook for about 10 minutes, and then stir in corn and okra, if using.

Cook another minute or two, then add a couple dashes of hot sauce, Worcestershire sauce and season to taste with salt and pepper.

To serve, place a scoop of cooked rice in a bowl and top with a scoop of the gumbo. Garnish with sliced scallions.

Serves 6-8.

— Gretchen McKay, Post-Gazette

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