Millions of years ago, ash- and lava-spewing volcanoes lurked underneath the shallow Pannonian Sea, now the Pannonian Basin, on ancient land that has evolved into modern-day Hungary. Although these once-menacing formations have long been dormant, their impact on the country’s topography is profound.
The Sauska vineyard in Mád (Photo: Akos Stiller) Vestiges of these geological phenomena are evident in Hungary’s abundant hot springs, giving rise to a sought-after thermal bath culture. Likewise, distinctive, mineral-laden wines born from volcanic soil in the Balaton, Eger, and Tokaj regions are fascinating reminders of this past.
Just as no trip to Hungary is complete without bathing in its healing waters, tasting these wines—at turns salty, flinty, and smoky—in the magical settin…
Millions of years ago, ash- and lava-spewing volcanoes lurked underneath the shallow Pannonian Sea, now the Pannonian Basin, on ancient land that has evolved into modern-day Hungary. Although these once-menacing formations have long been dormant, their impact on the country’s topography is profound.
The Sauska vineyard in Mád (Photo: Akos Stiller) Vestiges of these geological phenomena are evident in Hungary’s abundant hot springs, giving rise to a sought-after thermal bath culture. Likewise, distinctive, mineral-laden wines born from volcanic soil in the Balaton, Eger, and Tokaj regions are fascinating reminders of this past.
Just as no trip to Hungary is complete without bathing in its healing waters, tasting these wines—at turns salty, flinty, and smoky—in the magical settings that spawned them is essential for visiting oenophiles. These three excursions, easy to orchestrate from Budapest, Hungary’s vibrant capital, highlight a terroir shaped by a fascinating history. Be sure to book ahead at any cellars, since they aren’t always open to the public.
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Balaton
The view from Szent György Hill near Lake Balaton (Photo: Akos Stiller) Hungary comprises six wine regions and 22 districts, most of which are found in greater Balaton. Revolving around Central Europe’s largest lake of the same name, its northern shore swells with revelers come summertime, evoking a resort vibe.
Central to this blissful atmosphere is the local wine scene. The Badacsony wine district is defined by its striking hill—a basalt marvel formed by volcanic activity of yore. Resilient olaszrizling, pinot gris, and native kéknyelű are the grapes that dominate here, but there are plenty of surprises along the way, too.
Consider Csaba Török, founder and self-taught winemaker at 2HA Vineyard and Winery in Hegymagas, on Szent György-hegy (Mount Saint George). His passion for Italian varieties manifested in the pioneering Tabunello, Hungary’s only wine made with the sangiovese grosso grape. Reinforcing the Mediterranean wine is extra-virgin olive oil—another Balaton first—courtesy of the olive trees Török boldly planted on the winery’s grounds.
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Nearby in Gyulakeszi awaits Villa Tolnay Wine House, backdropped by the dramatic Csobánc hill. Swiss expat Philipp Oser immediately fell for the site—the former residence of 20th-century Hungarian actress Klári Tolnay—and reimagined it as a winery. Among the wines he turns out is the floral Villæra I, a blend of furmint, olaszrizling, and riesling crafted from multiple vintages through the solera method.
Over in Badacsonytomaj, Péter Váli’s long-brewing ardor for the intertwined realms of wine and food are illuminated at Váli Winery. In the idyllic garden, leisurely sip your way through nine organic wines, appreciating the singularity of kéknyelű and fellow native grape zeus. Ever-changing dishes like tender buffalo straight from the oven heighten the homey mood.
To the north of Badacsony is the tiny Somló region, decidedly romantic terrain marked by a lone hill jutting out from the plain. It’s a powerhouse of well-structured white wines sprung from grapes like furmint, hárslevelű, and juhfark, a variety mainly grown in the region. An ideal place to discover them is in Kőfejtő Cellar’s quaint press house hidden in the vineyards, where owner and winemaker Péter Tóth shares his syrah, a regional curiosity.
Head east from Badacsony to the Balatonfüred-Csopak district, Balaton’s cultural epicenter. Balatonfüred, home to impressive wineries including Figula and organic Gyukli, is posh and full of gliding yachts and restaurants that conjure the French Riviera.
Jásdi Winery in Csopak at Lake Balaton (Photo: Akos Stiller) ADVERTISEMENTAD
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Further east is Csopak. Family-run Jásdi Cellar and Wine Terrace, founded by spry septuagenarian István Jásdi, is one of the standouts in this stretch of the region. Its monumental cellar, dating from the 18th century, elicits an almost spiritual aura—fitting, given it once housed a Bishop of Veszprém’s collection. On the terrace, the vineyard views are staggering—all the better for relishing bright chardonnay and the velvety, coveted cabernet franc.
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Gilvesy Winery in Nemesgulács near Lake Balaton (Photo: Akos Stiller) Savor Gilvesy Winery’s organic, low-intervention wines alongside fried chicken sandwiches at the chic-industrial Gilvesy B-üzem in Nemesgulács. On Sundays, the open-air market Liliomkert in Káptalantóti teems with friends and family gathering over sour cherry rétes (strudel) washed down with elderflower lemonade. In Balatonfüred, Arácsi Cukrászda, aptly situated in an old vintner’s home, bakes delicious scone-like potato pogácsa, and Zelna Winery serves its own organic wines in the company of chicken supreme on an expansive patio.
Liliomkert market in Káptalantóti near Lake Balaton (Photo: Akos Stiller) ADVERTISEMENTAD
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Where to stay:Domaine Edegger in Badacsonytomaj also regales guests with a sauna and cozy apartments. Or balance wine tastings with dips in the heated infinity pool at the swank Anna Grand Hotel. A Balatonfüred landmark, the revamped building traces its roots back to a mid-18th-century guesthouse spa.
Upper Hungary Wine Region
Some 90 minutes from Budapest, Eger is the most famous district in this region—for its Romanesque-Gothic castle as much as its intense Egri Bikavér cuvées that rely heavily on the kékfrankos grape.
St. Andrea Vineyard in Egerszalók (Photo: Akos Stiller) Dubbed Bull’s Blood because of an Ottoman-era legend, Egri Bikavér’s reputation was tarnished for decades when low-quality versions were churned out during communist times. But such prominent Eger wineries as Gál Tibor, Kovács Nimród, and St. Andrea have worked hard to restore it, proving these lush, ruby-red wines exude character.
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At the latter, run by founder György Lőrincz and his son, György, Jr., tour the labyrinthine underground cellar and then, in the loungey tasting room, explore the range of Bikavér. The Agapé, a grand superior from the Nagy-Eged-Hegy vineyard, is a sublime expression of the blend bursting with black fruit and spice.
But don’t overlook Egri Csillag. Centuries ago, Eger was synonymous with white wines. Thanks to unexpectedly complex Egri Csillag blends—made with grapes like furmint, hárslevelű, olaszrizling, pinot gris, and sauvignon blanc—another trailblazing move from St. Andrea, white wines are increasingly sought after in robust red wine territory.
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Macok Bisztró puts the spotlight on refined Hungarian cuisine spanning beef tartare and warm túrógombóc—cottage cheese dumplings accentuated with sour cream mousse. Mályinka, less than an hour from Eger, is at the foot of the Bükk Mountains, a hiker’s paradise. Here, Iszkor, a no-frills pub, is unpretentious dining at its best. Order the juicy apricot pálinka, Hungarian fruit brandy from the village of Bükkaranyos, followed by trout buoyed by coconut cream and zucchini-dill lasagna in an inviting setting reminiscent of a ski chalet.
Hotel Palota in Lillafüred (Photo: Akos Stiller) ADVERTISEMENTAD
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Where to stay: Hunguest Hotel Palota in Lillafüred is a vintage fever dream. Built in 1930, its grand public spaces are awash in wood paneling and stained glass.
Tokaj
Arguably Hungary’s most well-known wine region, Tokaj is a UNESCO World Heritage site that produces sparkling, dry, late-harvest, and sweet wines primarily from the white grape varieties furmint and hárslevelű. Aszú, the region’s flagship, is one of the world’s most lauded dessert wines; hand-picked grapes transformed by noble rot are the result of a unique microclimate at the intersection of the Bodrog and Tisza rivers.
Rákóczi Cellar at Tokaj-Hétszőlő Vineyard in Tokaj (Photo: Akos Stiller) Furmint and hárslevelű are versatile workhorses, unleashing white wines that are as crisp as they are lovely. Guided tastings reveal the breadth of these grapes. For one, descend into the Rákóczi Cellar, a glorious medieval structure in the town of Tokaj. It belongs to the organic winery Tokaj-Hétszőlő, part of France’s Michel Reybier Hospitality collection. Its 136-acre vineyard was first formed in 1502, when the Garai family merged seven parcels of prime land into one.
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Füleky Tokaj Estate in Bodrogkeresztúr should be another stop. Visit the local stone-clad cellar with a Brutalist air before settling into the wine shop and working your way up to the honeyed szamorodni and aszú.
View of Sauska Padi Bistro in Rátka (Photo: Akos Stiller) Mád, a picturesque Tokaj village, is much buzzed for its single-vineyard dry furmints from top producers like Barta, Szarka, and Szepsy. Wander through, then set off for Sauska on the outskirts. Founded by husband-and-wife duo Krisztián and Andrea Sauska, the winery, which also has outposts in Budafok and Villány, beckons with its futuristic, UFO-like architecture. Inside, there are contemporary artworks, a sparkling wine bar, and an intimate restaurant looking out at Tokaj’s rolling hills.
Sparkling selection at Sauska Padi Bistro in Rátka (Photo: Akos Stiller)
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On the way to Tokaj from Budapest, take a 40-minute detour up to Boldogkő Castle in Boldogkőváralja, a stunning 13th-century stone-walled fortress. Minutes away is Bestillo, a family-owned pálinka house with an especially zippy raspberry rendition. Kick off lunch at airy Anyukám Mondta in Encs with a glass of the house sparkling wine before gorging on eggplant schnitzel. Karám, in Bodrogkeresztúr, promises elevated takes on Hungarian favorites like veal paprikash, while in Mád, Első Mádi by BG melds Italian and Hungarian flavors.
Where to stay: Füleky Tokaj Estate has accommodations, too. Spend the night in an 18th-century mansion complete with terrace and garden.
Pizza, Kávé, Világbéke Restaurant in Miskolc (Photo: Akos Stiller) Bonus: Between Tokaj and Budapest in Miskolc, Anyukám Mondta’s sister restaurant Pizza, Kávé, Világbéke hits the spot with casual Roman-style pizza slices in a cheerful, greenery-bedecked space. From there, it’s only a minute to Desszertem Cukrászműhely & Kávézó for a hefty serving of Rákóczi túrós—a mélange of sweet curd cheese, meringue, and apricot.
The wines mentioned above are available to purchase through a number of U.S.-based importers: Villa Tolnay (Palinkerie); Kőfejtő (East West Wines); 2HA (Taste Hungary Wine Shop); Váli (Danch & Granger Selections); St. Andrea (Aqueous Spirits); Hétszőlő (Duclot La Vinicole); Füleky (Happy Hearts Wine); Sauska (Sauska Wines LLC)