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In This Recipe

Why It Works

• Tossing the pumpkin with sugar draws out excess liquid, preventing it from becoming soggy during cooking.
• Whisking the pumpkin juices released during maceration into the béchamel gives it a subtly sweet, vegetal note.
• Seasoning the pumpkin with cinnamon, cloves, and nutmeg enhances the pumpkin’s natural sweetness and nuttiness.

Kar’ assali is a delicately spiced and gently sweet Egyptian dessert of soft, caramelized pumpkin that’s scented with cloves and cinnamon, layered with toasted nuts and coconut, and topped with a sweet béchamel. It’s a luxuriously creamy and comforting dish that holds a special place in my heart: Each time I make kar’ assali, I’m reminded of my mother’s beloved cousin, Tante Ragaa, who introduced me to the dessert.

Tante kept a watchful eye on me when I moved from Alexandria to Cairo, first when I was a student, then as a young professional. With no family of my own nearby, she made space for me at her table, including me in intimate family dinners and holiday celebrations. Her hospitality anchored me during those early years, and her cooking became a source of warmth and comfort. Kar’ assali is her signature dessert, a delicacy she always makes with love, precision, and a touch of flair.

What I love most about Tante Ragaa’s version—and have tried to recreate in mine—is that it’s not too sweet, and has just the right balance of creaminess and crunch, with a gentle wobble that makes it delightfully fun to eat. Over the years, kar’ assali has taken the place of pumpkin pie at my Thanksgiving table, saving me the hassle of making a crust while delivering the same autumnal flavors of cinnamon, cloves, and nutmeg. It’s make-ahead friendly, a crowd pleaser, and always the first dessert to disappear. Here’s how I make it.

The Best Pumpkin to Use—and How to Cook It

Naturally sweet varieties, such as sugar pumpkin or kabocha squash, work beautifully, offering both sweetness and a firm texture. I start by peeling, dicing, and then tossing cubed pumpkin with sugar to draw out its excess liquid—an old trick that keeps the dessert from turning soggy while also concentrating the pumpkin’s flavor. After the pumpkin has macerated for at least an hour, I cook it in a Dutch oven over low heat until tender, then mash it until smooth. The resulting purée is thick, starchy, and sweet, with a caramel-like richness that simply isn’t found in canned purée.

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Flavoring the Béchamel

Instead of discarding the water that’s extracted from the pumpkin, I incorporate it into the béchamel, which gives the sauce an earthy, vegetal note that ties the whole dish together. It’s a beautiful way to use almost all of the pumpkin, while also amplifying its natural flavor. A touch of orange blossom water adds a floral note, while vanilla and nutmeg lend the dish the warm aromas characteristic of many Egyptian desserts. Cream cheese introduces extra richness and a silky, custardy texture to the sauce.

Assembling the Dish

Once the pumpkin is mashed and the béchamel is made, all that’s left to do is assemble. It’s as easy as it gets: You simply have to spread the pumpkin evenly across the bottom of a baking dish, top it with coconut, walnuts, and sultanas, then blanket the whole thing with the béchamel. Baked until fragrant and piping hot, then broiled until golden brown, kar’ assali is a warm, comforting dessert that’s as fitting at the end of a weeknight dinner as it is for a celebratory occasion.

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Keep Screen Awake

For the Pumpkin Layer:

1 kg (2.2 pounds) pumpkin, such as Sugar Pie or Sugar Bush, peeled and cut into 2-inch chunks

1 1/4 cups granulated sugar (about 9 ounces; 250 g), see notes

1 teaspoon ground cinnamon

1/2 teaspoon ground cloves

1/4 teaspoon ground nutmeg

For the Sweet Béchamel Layer:

3 tablespoons unsalted butter or ghee (1 1/2 ounces; 42 g)

3 tablespoons (24 g) all-purpose flour

2 cups (480 ml) whole milk, room temperature

1 cup (240 ml) pumpkin liquid, from above

1/4 cup cream cheese (2 ounces; 57 g), optional

1/4 teaspoon vanilla extract

1/4 teaspoon ground nutmeg

1 teaspoon orange blossom water, optional

To Assemble:

1/4 cup toasted unsweetened coconut flakes (3/4 ounces; 21 g)

1/4 cup toasted walnuts (1 ounce; 28 g)

3 tablespoons sultanas (1 1/2 ounces; about 40 g), see notes

1 tablespoon granulated sugar (1/2 ounce; 15 g), for sprinkling, optional

**For the Pumpkin: **In a large bowl, toss pumpkin with sugar until evenly coated. Transfer to a colander and set over now-empty bowl. Set aside for at least 1 hour and up to 8 hours to draw out excess water. Reserve liquid; you should have at least 1 cup.

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Transfer drained pumpkin to a large Dutch oven or heavy-bottomed pan and season with cinnamon, cloves, and nutmeg. Cook over low heat, stirring occasionally, until pumpkin is tender, about 20 minutes. (If pumpkin becomes too dry and begins to stick to bottom of pot, add 1/4 cup water.)

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**For the Sweet Béchamel Sauce: **In a medium saucepan, melt butter or ghee over medium-high heat. Add flour and whisk to form a paste. Continue to cook, stirring, until raw flour scent is gone, about 1 minute. Whisking constantly, add 1 cup reserved pumpkin liquid and milk in a thin, steady stream, whisking thoroughly and getting into all corners of the pan to maintain a smooth texture. Whisk in cream cheese, vanilla, and nutmeg.

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Continue to cook, stirring, until sauce comes to a simmer and begins to thicken slightly, about 1 minute. Reduce the heat to low and cook, stirring, until sauce is thick enough to coat the back of a wooden spoon, about 3 minutes. Remove from heat; set aside.

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To Assemble: Adjust oven rack to middle position and preheat to 350°F (175°C). 1.

Using a potato masher, mash cooked pumpkin and, using a flexible spatula, spread it evenly across the bottom of a 9-by-9-inch baking dish. Sprinkle with toasted coconut, sultanas, and walnuts. Pour warm béchamel over the pumpkin and nuts, using a flexible spatula to spread it evenly from edge to edge. Sprinkle with sugar, if desired.

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Bake until béchamel is bubbly and dessert is fragrant, about 20 minutes. Preheat broiler to high, and broil, checking frequently to prevent burning, until béchamel is golden brown and caramelized, 2 to 3 minutes. Alternatively, use a kitchen torch to brown top of dessert (hold torch 1- to 2-inches away from the surface). Serve warm, at room temperature, or chilled for a more custard-like texture.

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Special Equipment

Colander, large Dutch oven, 9-by-9-inch baking dish

Notes

The sweetest pumpkin varieties are typically labeled as “sugar” or “pie” pumpkins, known for their naturally sweet, smooth-textured flesh and smaller size. Look for varieties like Sugar Pie, Baby Pam, and Sugar Bush. Though technically a winter squash, butternut squash is also prized for its sweetness and can be an excellent substitute for pumpkin in both savory and dessert recipes.

Raisins can be used in place of sultanas.

Make-Ahead and Storage

The dish can be assembled up to 1 day in advance, loosely covered with plastic wrap, and refrigerated until you’re ready to bake.

Once cooled, the finished dish can be wrapped tightly in plastic and frozen for up to 1 month. Thaw in fridge overnight. Leftovers can be refrigerated in an airtight container for up to 3 days. To reheat, warm individual portions in the microwave until heated through. Alternatively, the entire baking dish can be reheated in a 350°F (175°C) oven until warmed through.

Nutrition Facts (per serving)
403	Calories
20g	Fat
54g	Carbs
6g	Protein

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Nutrition Facts Servings: 6 to 8 Amount per serving Calories 403 % Daily Value* 20g 26% Saturated Fat 14g 69% 25mg 8% 58mg 3% 54g 20% Dietary Fiber 5g 17% Total Sugars 44g 6g Vitamin C 8mg 39% Calcium 115mg 9% Iron 2mg 10% Potassium 588mg 13% *The % Daily Value (DV) tells you how much a nutrient in a food serving contributes to a daily diet. 2,000 calories a day is used for general nutrition advice.

(Nutrition information is calculated using an ingredient database and should be considered an estimate.)