While I love a classic croque monsieur (or madame), I do occasionally like to mix things up by using different cheeses and hits of other condiments – I basically live life on the edge. This leek-laced version feels comfortingly autumnal, and a bit special, too. If I have friends coming over, I’ll make the leek and bechamel base in advance, then fill the sandwiches just before baking and serve them with a bitter leaf salad.

Leek and comté croques

Prep 10 min Cook 40 min Serves 4

2 leeks (about 300g), trimmed and finely sliced 2 garlic cloves, peeled and finely sliced 60g unsalted butter, plus extra for buttering **Sea salt and **black pepper 60g plain flour 300ml whole milk 1 heaped tsp English mustard 100g comté, finely grated 60g mature cheddar, finely grated **8 slices **bread

Put the sliced leeks, garlic and butter in a medium saucepan on a medium-low heat, season well, then saute, stirring occasionally, for 15-20 minutes, until the leeks have cooked down and turned sticky.

Meanwhile, heat the oven to 240C (220C fan)/475F/gas 9. Stir the flour into the leek mix and cook for a minute or so, until it becomes a biscuity roux. Pour in the milk, turn up the heat a little and whisk until the sauce is smooth. Keep whisking for a minute, until the sauce thickens, then take off the heat. Whisk in the mustard and two-thirds of the grated comté and cheddar, and put to one side.

Toast the bread (in batches, if need be), then butter one side of each slice. Lay four slices of toast buttered side down on a lined baking sheet. Spread each one with a generous amount of the leek bechamel, then top with a second slice of toast, this time buttered side up. Finish each sandwich with a layer of the remaining leek bechamel, then top with the remaining grated cheese. Bake for 10-14 minutes, until the croques are golden, bubbling and oozy.

Serve straight away, with a dressed salad on the side, if you like.