People seem to have had their fill of mock-meat burgers, veggie sausages and fake chicken. Last month, the Grocer reported that Quorn and Linda McCartney’s, the UK’s leading meat-free brands, lost a combined £15.7m in 2024. Overall sales of meat substitutes fell by 6%, or £30m.

But that doesn’t mean meat is back on the menu. According to Eating Better, an alliance of environmental, animal welfare, public health and social justice charities, meat consumption in the UK has been on a downward trend for more than a decade. Its 2024 survey found that fewer people eat meat every day, 61% are willing to eat less and 24% reduced their consumption in the past year.

Enter tofu and tempeh, which are flying off supermarket shelves. The Grocer says tofu sales are up 15.3% in the UK, while tempeh is one of the fastest-growing foods. Tiba Tempeh, the UK’s biggest producer, has announced a 736% increase in sales year on year. Its main rival, Better Nature, increased sales by 128% in the same period. Both have recently raised more than £1m in funding to expand internationally.

Tofu has been in supermarkets for years but, despite its burgeoning popularity, tempeh remains relatively unknown. So what exactly is it, and why has it suddenly taken off?

What is tempeh?

Tempted? … Tempeh is made by a fermentation process that binds soya beans into a cake form. Photograph: danikancil/Getty Images/iStockphoto Like tofu, tempeh is traditionally made from soya beans. But whereas tofu is made from soya milk, tempeh uses the whole beans. They are fermented by live cultures – typically Rhizopus species – which transforms them into a firm, dense block. As Tofoo, a tofu brand that also makes tempeh, puts it: “Tempeh is like tofu after it’s been at the gym – HARD.” The only other ingredient is water.

Where does it come from?

While many shoppers may be discovering tempeh for the first time, it’s certainly not a new invention. In a 2021 review, researchers from the University of Massachusetts and the Indonesian Academy of Sciences explained: “Tempeh is an indigenous food from Indonesia, where it has been consumed as a staple source of protein for more than 300 years.”

Petty Elliott, a UK-based Indonesian chef and the author of The Indonesian Table, says: “Tempeh is very important in Indonesian culture, especially for Javanese people – it was invented in the Java islands.” The earliest known reference to tempeh was found in the Serat Centhini, a compilation of Javanese teachings written in the 1800s. But, says Lara Lee, an Australian chef and food writer of Chinese-Indonesian heritage: “Some argue its existence may date back more than 1,000 years.”

What does it taste like?

“Tempeh has a mild, mushroom-like and nutty taste with a firm, meaty consistency. It’s often described as earthy and slightly yeasty,” says Dr Sammie Gill, a registered dietitian and British Dietetic Association spokesperson. Even if you’re not usually a fan of fermented foods, you may like it, says Elliott. “Tempeh has the same ingredients as miso, but as the fermentation time is not as long, it’s not so strong a taste.”

‘A nutty taste with a firm, meaty consistency’ … tempeh semur from UK-based Indonesian chef Petty Elliott. Photograph: Petty Elliott But that doesn’t mean it’s boring, she says: “Tempeh has more flavour and texture than tofu – you can make it really crunchy.” Eleanor Ford, a food writer and the author of Fire Islands: Recipes from Indonesia, agrees. “The nutty, nubbed texture is a key feature of tempeh, making it anything but bland.”

Lee, whose latest cookbook is A Splash of Soy, adds that, like tofu: “Tempeh is also porous, so it acts as a wonderful sponge. When it is simmered in a sauce or broth, it absorbs all of the flavours it is cooked in.”

Is it good for me?

According to Better Nature: “Tempeh has a similar amount of protein to chicken, more fibre than apples and is rich in gut-loving prebiotics.” Ross Longton, co-founder of Tiba Tempeh, says it has double the protein and six times the fibre of tofu. It sounds too good to be true. Is it?

“Tempeh is a rich source of plant-based protein,” Gill confirms. “For example, 100g contains around 20g of protein.” That’s about two-thirds as much as a similar-size chicken breast.

There’s more. “Tempeh contains isoflavones such as genistein and daidzin, which have been linked with several benefits, including improved cognition function, reduced menopausal symptoms and lowered cancer risk,” says Gill. “It is a source of B vitamins, including vitamin B12, which is normally found only in animal products.”

Finally, she says: “The fermentation process increases the nutritional value because it breaks down complex nutrients – including proteins and fibre – into simpler, more digestible and absorbable forms. It also breaks down anti-nutrients [ie, substances that block the absorption of nutrients], such as phytates, which improves the bioavailability of minerals including iron, zinc and calcium.”

What kinds can I buy?

New on the block … tempeh is sold in plain or smoky versions. Photograph: Petty Elliott Outside Indonesia, where it is traditionally wrapped in banana leaves, tempeh is sold in plain or smoky blocks, and as ready-to-use marinated pieces, mince and burgers. I tried some marinated pieces, shallow-fried until crispy and served with potato salad; a plain block, sliced and used in a stir-fry with satay sauce; and some mince, in place of tofu in a vegan ragu. All went down surprisingly well with my boyfriend, who will eat tofu only under duress. Next on my list is a smoky block, which Longton says makes a good bacon substitute: “Slice it, shallow-fry it and have it in a bagel with a bit of avocado or ketchup.”

Tempeh aficionados may, like Lee, prefer to seek out small-batch, fresh tempeh, sold chilled in most Asian supermarkets.

How do I cook it?

**“**Nearly all Indonesians deep-fry their tempeh,” says Lee. “If an Indonesian sees someone trying to pan-fry their tempeh in an attempt to be healthy, they will think the world has gone mad. The savoury meatiness, umami flavour and texture of tempeh are amplified when it is deep-fried. Thin slices can be marinated in salt, water, ground coriander and minced garlic for 30 minutes, then drained and deep-fried in oil to make tempe goreng. The flavour is incredible and it is one of my favourite snacks.” Of all the styles of tempeh I tried, the deep-fried slices at Toba, an Indonesian restaurant in central London, were definitely the most delicious, although the stewed tempeh in coconut milk sauce came a pretty close second.

“In saying that, deep-frying for many western cooks is not second nature, so I usually offer a pan-fried option in my recipes, so it feels less daunting,” adds Lee. “One of the tricks in cooking with tempeh is that the more surface area is fried, the better it tastes. I learned the genius technique of crumbling tempeh into ‘tempeh rocks’ from the Dutch-Indonesian cookbook author Vanja van der Leeden. The tempeh is crumbled into small rocks and then shallow-fried in oil, maximising its texture and flavour.”

For Indonesian authenticity, Lee suggests drizzling your cooked tempeh with kecap manis, a fermented sweet soy sauce, or eating it with sambal, a chilli condiment. She says it works with ginger, garlic, shallots, lemongrass and other spices and aromatics.

Fried flavours … Toba’s gulai daun singkong pete – a tempeh vegan curry. Photograph: Revano Hanif However, “You can also use tempeh in non-Indonesian dishes, such as a tasty filling for tacos, in brunch bowls or even in bolognese,” says Lee. The Tiba Tempeh and Better Nature websites have a host of recipes from all kinds of cuisines, including salads, stir-fries, curries, pasta and traybakes.

Why is it suddenly so popular?

Longton says that launching a tempeh brand in 2019 wasn’t easy. “It was a real slog for the first four years. We asked ourselves: do we really want to continue? But over the past two years, it has really picked up.” He thinks the main reasons for tempeh’s newfound popularity are that, compared with most other meat-free alternatives, it is “all-natural”, “considerably cheaper” and “far more nutritious”. “There’s a huge move away from ultra-processed food [UPF],” he says. “People want healthy wholefood products.”

From tacos to bolognese, minced tempeh is adaptable … a tempeh pasta dish. Photograph: Petty Elliott

Is it just for vegetarians and vegans?

“In Indonesia, tempeh has the nickname ‘Javanese meat’,” says Lee. “It has always been a cheap source of protein and you’ll find it served almost daily in the family home. Meat is typically reserved for ceremonial occasions or eaten at restaurants.” Ideal, then, for flexitarians saving meat for special occasions, as well as plant-based eaters.

Neither Tiba Tempeh nor Better Nature trumpet their vegan credentials on the front of the packs, preferring to focus on the high-protein, gut-friendly, non-UPF selling points instead. “The word ‘vegan’ can put people off; it’s polarising,” says Longton. “Meat reducers don’t want copies of meat – they’d rather have something completely different. We’re proud to be tempeh and we’re not trying to be anything else.”

Is it still a staple in Indonesia?

“Tempeh’s popularity waned shortly after Indonesia’s independence from the Dutch in 1945,” says Lee. “President Sukarno told the people: ‘We are a great nation; we are not a tempeh nation’ – referring to tempeh’s status as a soft-textured and cheap food. For decades, tempeh was looked down on as food for the poor and weak, but over time its status returned to its former glory, as national pride grew over tempeh’s Indonesian origins.”

“Tempeh was traditionally associated with food for the poor, a bit like cucina povera in Italy,” agrees Elliott. “People didn’t know how nutritious it was. It’s only recently that awareness has been raised. Now people have realised it’s actually a superfood.”

Is it sustainable?

In the 2021 review, the researchers found that tempeh delivers protein far more efficiently than meat, based on the energy obtained versus the carbon emissions produced. They suggested it could be even more sustainable if it was made from locally grown legumes, grains and nuts, rather than imported soya beans. While Tiba Tempeh and Better Nature’s soya beans are sustainably sourced and non-GM, they come all the way from Canada. In Indonesia, says Lee, 90% of the soya beans used to make tempeh are GM and imported from the US.

Although most commonly made from soya beans, tempeh can be made with other ingredients. Lee says: “The Indonesian Tempe Movement encourages farmers to make tempeh using locally sourced produce, and there are now more than 30 varieties that include other legumes, seeds, grains, cassava, coconut and even instant noodles. Even leftover soya-bean pulp from making soya milk can be turned into tempeh.” Elliott mentions the UK brand Tempt Me Tempeh, which sells tempeh made from black turtle beans, pinto beans, chickpeas and more.

But Longton believes soya beans are still best: “Soya is one of the most nutritious, efficient beans in the world.” Legions of new tempeh fans around the world seem to agree.

Not tempted by tempeh? Four new meat alternatives

**Chickpea tofu.The company This, better known for its plant-based chicken, sausages and bacon, last week launched a tofu made from chickpeas instead of soya beans. It comes in seasoned and spiced varieties, and is suitable for those with soya allergies. £2.95 for 200g, available now in Sainsbury’s and Ocado, in Tesco from 6 October and in Waitrose from 15 October

Super Superfood**.The same company debuted a high-protein block made from shiitake mushrooms, fava beans and seeds in April. It also comes in marinated pieces. £3.95 for 250g, available in Tesco, Waitrose, Sainsbury’s and Asda

Tofu seitan**.Tofoo collaborated with Temple of Seitan, a London restaurant, last year to make a tofu/seitan hybrid. It is 51% tofu and 22% seitan (wheat gluten), and comes in original (chicken) and pepperoni flavours. £2.50 for 225g, available in Waitrose (both flavours) and Tesco (original only)

Veg’chop**.** The startup Oh So Wholesome makes a plant-based protein from red lentils, sweet potatoes, quinoa, yellow split peas and mushrooms. It comes in original, Mexican, Mediterranean and tikka flavours. £3 for 250g*, available in Tesco (original and Mexican only)*