Susan B. Barnes

Traveling north of the Arctic Circle in the dead of winter may not be on everyone’s bucket list, but perhaps it should be.
Imagine carving the first tracks down a mountain, uninterrupted views stretching over fjords and across the horizon, or feeling the power behind a team of sled dogs as you guide them across a frozen landscape. What it must be like to pedal a fat bike through barren forests meandering alongside a frozen river, or soak in a hot tub as the Northern Lights dance across the ink-black night sky.
These intentionally-curated experiences in Finnmark, in the far reach…
Susan B. Barnes

Traveling north of the Arctic Circle in the dead of winter may not be on everyone’s bucket list, but perhaps it should be.
Imagine carving the first tracks down a mountain, uninterrupted views stretching over fjords and across the horizon, or feeling the power behind a team of sled dogs as you guide them across a frozen landscape. What it must be like to pedal a fat bike through barren forests meandering alongside a frozen river, or soak in a hot tub as the Northern Lights dance across the ink-black night sky.
These intentionally-curated experiences in Finnmark, in the far reaches of northern Norway on land settled more than 10,000 years ago by the Sámi and Kven, are all part of the seven-night Arctic Experience: Mørketid in Norway trip led by Klättermusen Experiences. The outfitter led its first trip in January 2025 in celebration of the 50th anniversary of Klättermusen, a premium, sustainable Swedish mountaineering brand.
“We have invested years in building relationships with communities so that travelers are invited in as participants.” says Yahnny San Luis, CEO of Klättermusen Experiences. “We design trips that are crafted for life and share this ethos with Klättermusen. This philosophy shapes everything we do, from the way we design experiences to the way we foster and build our local relationships, ensuring that each itinerary supports local livelihoods and treats the Northern Lights as part of a broader story.”
Light Up the Night
For many of us, seeing the Northern Lights is the stuff of dreams. Whether we travel to Alaska, Canada, Iceland or Scandinavia, there are many factors that come into play when trying to glimpse the natural phenomenon, from weather to the moon cycle to light pollution.

That is where Finnmark really shines. Its remote, northernmost location lends itself to prime Northern Lights viewing: Not only is light pollution a non-issue, but the polar night — the period of winter when the sun doesn’t peek above the horizon for up to four months — means the lights may come out earlier. On our trip in January, the Northern Lights came out as early as 4 p.m.
Added Adventure
Adventurous skiers tackle towering mountains, seek out pristine backcountry terrain and are always looking for the next best place to shred. In Finnmark, skiing may offer an additional challenge — going off-piste by going ski touring. Rather than chair lifts or helicopters transporting skiers to the peaks, ski touring requires skiers to hike up the side of a mountain, which can take hours. In addition to their ski gear, ski tourers carry headlamps, avalanche transceivers and probes, and plenty of food to refuel.

After summiting and resting at the top, it is time for the reward: skiing back down the mountain. It is true what they say: Skiers earn their turns in Finnmark.
Though it may sound daunting, ski touring is accessible to everyone, regardless of experience. Both veteran and novice skiers were on our trip, guided by the father-son team at Spor Guiding, and appeared to be having the times of their lives.
“As someone who has been snowboarding for three decades, it was honestly a life-changing moment for me and one that rewired my brain as I experienced riding down a completely virgin mountain face for the first time in my life,” says Michael Venutolo-Mantovani of Chapel Hill, North Carolina. “And then, to look up and see the fjords and the wilderness stretching out before me, as far as my eyes could see? It all made me feel very small and insignificant — in the best way possible, of course.”

For those not up to the ski touring challenge, there is a show shoeing experience led by Sámi native June Antonsen Røsbø, who shares her culture while trekking through the snow.
It is one thing to rein in a rambunctious dog during a walk in the park. It is quite another to try to control the power of a pack of trained sled dogs who yearn for nothing more than to run at full speed across a snow-covered landscape, especially as a novice. But that is just what former world dogsledding champion Marianne Skjøthaug and her partner Arne Karlstrøm teach their guests at Parken Gård Husky. In between snuggles and breathless puppy kisses, guests learn to harness the dogs and drive sleds.

“Handling six sled dogs in the breathtaking mountains of Norway was one of the most freeing and exhilarating experiences I’ve ever had,” says Florida-based adventure travel creator Lauren Gay. “It was this strange mix of high adrenaline and simultaneous calm and connection with the land. I tell everyone who will listen about that day. It’s one of my favorite travel memories.”
Cultural Appreciation
Beyond the exhilarating adventures, another compelling element of the Mørketid in Norway itinerary is the intentional interaction with and support of local communities. One evening’s activity is joining a local Sámi family for an intimate evening of storytelling, during which they share their history and culture over a nourishing meal in a traditional tent warmed by a blazing fire.

“I can’t think of many better ways to experience the truth of a place than to share a meal with people who’ve been living off of the land we were traversing for centuries,” says Venutolo-Mantovani. “It was like touching a piece of the fabric of time. Something that is all too uncommon in our hypermodern world.”
Collaborating with local communities is at the heart of all of Klättermusen Experiences’ trips, ensuring that they remain true to local customs and traditions.
“We partner with … Spor Guiding and Parken Gård Husky to preserve and share traditions,” San Luis says. “We travel in small groups and move through nature with care, whether we’re on skis, snowshoes, dogsleds or fat bikes.
“As travel professionals, we teach guests how to move responsibly through wild places and emphasize the interdependence between human stories and landscapes,” she says. “By being intentional today, honoring heritage, supporting local economies and treading lightly, we build an approach to adventure travel that will endure and inspire future generations.
“We want our guests to feel a sense of awe in our world and become advocates to protect it,” San Luis says.