Nadia Chaudhury is a born-and-raised New Yorker who is an editor for Eater’s Northeast region and Eater New York, was the former Eater Austin editor for 10 years, and often writes about food and pop culture.

Kelang is the newest restaurant from the family behind Sunset Park Malaysian restaurant Hainan Chicken House. It’s in Greenpoint, where owner Chris Low and the team expound onMalaysian cuisine by way of a New York City childhood growing up on Brooklyn dining. Caribbean, Italian, and American fare threads throughout the flavorful menu at the fashionable convivial table-service spot right on Manhattan Avenue.

What to order

• The paratha ($18), a beautifully single, hella-fluffed and towering round, sits on top of creamy dal where the sambal oil adds some nice heat.
• The abacus seeds ($24), where soft, earthy gnocchi made with taro are paired with smoky and chewy mushrooms, and amped up with chile and shaoxing wine.
• The rendang ($34) comes with pulled stewy spicy smoky oxtail (Kelang’s Caribbean influence), rounded out with a delightful rice mixture of djon djon (a Haitian black mushroom rice) and nasi ulam (Malaysian herbed rice).
• The moonlight krway teow ($27) showcases how dark soy sauce is a key element to the family’s specific regional Malaysian cuisine. The condiment nearly blackens the broad rice noodles, studded with chewy little clams and soft prawns. Mix the yolk around for a creamier texture.

What to drink

At the time we dined, Kelang just recently secured its liquor license but didn’t have alcoholic drinks yet. But still, the non-boozy kalamansi limeade ($7) was gingery bright and sweet.

Insider tip

Pay attention to the intentional spelling of the restaurant: Kelang is the old spelling of the Malaysian port city Klang, where Low’s parents are from. The word “restoran” is the Malay word for restaurant. And then written underneath are its name written out Chinese and Jawi, the latter an Arabic-based script used for Southeast Asian languages.