Mapo tofu is a Chengdu favourite typical of the “spicy generosity” of Sichuan food, Fuchsia Dunlop explains, though it’s perhaps better not translated as “pock-marked old woman’s tofu”. It may even convert you to the joys of tofu itself, should you still be on the fence about the stuff, because its creamy softness is the perfect foil for the intensely savoury, tingly seasoning involved here. It’s also ready in mere minutes.

Prep 10 min Cook 7 min Serves 2

2 garlic cloves 1 small knob fresh root ginger 4 spring onions Salt 250g plain tofu (I like a soft one, but see step 3) 2 tsp cornflour, or potato or tapioca starch** 1 tbsp Sichuan peppercorns 2 tbsp neutral oil 40g pork mince**, or beef mince, or a plant-based alternative 1 heaped tbsp Sichuan chilli bean paste (also called spicy doubanjiang or toban djan, see step 8) ½ tbsp fermented black beans, drained 1 tsp chilli flakes, drained if in oil (drizzle this on top, if you prefer) 85ml water

1 A note on the accompaniments

If serving this with rice, which is how it’s generally eaten (though you could have it with noodles instead), put that on to cook. It’s also nice with some steamed green vegetables or a cucumber salad on the side. Prepare any accompaniments, and all the ingredients before you begin, because this is a dish that comes together quickly.

2 Prep the veg

Peel and finely chop the garlic, and peel and finely grate the ginger – you’ll need roughly a tablespoon’s worth. Trim off and discard the whiskery ends from the spring onions, and any very dry bits off the tops, then divide them into white and green parts, slice both on the diagonal into roughly 2cm lengths and keep them separate.

3 Prep the tofu

Bring a large pan of salted water to a boil. Cut the tofu into roughly 2½cm chunks – I like the creamy richness of soft or even silken tofu, while others prefer the slight chew of firmer varieties, but any kind should work here, as long as it’s unflavoured. Mix the cornflour (or potato/tapioca starch) and a tablespoon of cold water to make a paste.

4 Blanch the tofu

Turn down the heat under the boiling water, then gently slip in the tofu, keeping the pieces as intact as possible. Simmer gently for a minute, then turn off the heat. Meanwhile, toast half the peppercorns in a dry pan until aromatic, then grind to a powder and set aside.

5 Flavour the oil

Put a wok or a medium frying pan on a medium-high heat, then add the oil. Once it starts to smoke, add the remaining whole peppercorns and fry, stirring, until aromatic; take care not to let them burn. Scoop out and discard the peppercorns, leaving the infused oil in the pan. (You can flavour the oil in advance, if need be.)

6 Add the mince

Add the meat and fry until brown and crisp – it’s used in such small amounts here that you’re unlikely to miss it if you choose to leave it out.

Alternatively, soya mince, rehydrated if required, or other plant-based alternatives, or even finely chopped, sauteed mushrooms or aubergines will work well, too.

7 Fry the aromatics

Scoop the mince out of the pan with a slotted spoon, leaving as much oil behind as possible, and transfer to a plate lined with kitchen paper to drain. Turn down the heat slightly, then fry the garlic, ginger and spring onion whites for a minute or so, stirring constantly and taking care that they don’t catch and burn.

8 Add the flavourings and thickener

Stir in the bean paste (this is easily found in Chinese supermarkets or online; miso paste, preferably red, makes a decent if not perfect substitute, though if you use that, you’ll need to add a little more chilli), fermented black beans and chilli, fry for 20 seconds, then pour in 85ml cold water and bring to a simmer. Stir in the cornflour paste until well combined.

9 Stir in the tofu and serve

Carefully drain the blanched tofu so it doesn’t break up, then tip it into the wok along with the fried mince. Spoon the sauce over the tofu and meat, disturbing the tofu as little as possible so as to keep it intact, and cook until the sauce thickens. Gently decant into a serving bowl, sprinkle with the reserved ground pepper and spring onion greens, and serve with plain rice.